tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90746549201936952672024-03-14T19:23:49.871+11:00BYLONGRay Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.comBlogger262125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-2246997203122492472023-12-21T11:20:00.000+11:002023-12-21T11:20:20.484+11:00Have a Happy Christmas and a Great New Year<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9X0vIp1BodDKVoXGUtUq77ZJnew4idK7UTGPVJowlko0RiX8mnJnV6rsDkO4fbKpxYr0J3-BvcXfaUp6Zi_QnAZKr50CnNE_gOjmRYSQD47S9gu5sS-HDkVDWS85o8iorGt8gdd2wlpkS_t661s9v3XBV4S6MnzAofOzmRV66Q8uIuK4UdmzNB8WFhFN/s6000/Happy%20Christmas%202023.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="3376" data-original-width="6000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9X0vIp1BodDKVoXGUtUq77ZJnew4idK7UTGPVJowlko0RiX8mnJnV6rsDkO4fbKpxYr0J3-BvcXfaUp6Zi_QnAZKr50CnNE_gOjmRYSQD47S9gu5sS-HDkVDWS85o8iorGt8gdd2wlpkS_t661s9v3XBV4S6MnzAofOzmRV66Q8uIuK4UdmzNB8WFhFN/s400/Happy%20Christmas%202023.JPG"/></a></div>
I would like to wish you all the best of the season, have a safe , enjoyable and relaxing time.
RayRay Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-79368218201106588232023-08-02T14:16:00.000+10:002023-08-02T14:16:07.559+10:00I have my Fathers Disease, I like Tools<p> As the title says, I like to find useful tools and use them, although this last part sometimes takes quite a while.</p><p>Here is my latest find, a small vertical drill.</p><p>I had been drilling holes through the brass signal posts for various detail parts, handrails, ladder supports, etc. by eye using a cordless Dremel motor tool and a 0.45mm drill bit. I knew I needed something better and I saw someone post on the Aus7 Modellers Group on Facebook about a small vertical drill he had bought but without a link to it. An ebay search found three that were of similar size with what looked like the same 12-volt small motor. Here is what I chose.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-5UhChnQr5n_7_j_yYxUh5RiPdkep8wZbUa4mK2ICI3ezGmreoj9IX0Z9uFsbDMfi92UwZ6ozUYmx0ghFzTKOTMwmHecefpm66FVxZn8AeoKjY6_haBIB361uTfOp38P4rHtvtQDibu49a9aD6yZjAjtY0KE1eHKJvtxkJ1sF6TeiVHXWtYB6cOnioHE/s4032/20230802_125202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1816" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-5UhChnQr5n_7_j_yYxUh5RiPdkep8wZbUa4mK2ICI3ezGmreoj9IX0Z9uFsbDMfi92UwZ6ozUYmx0ghFzTKOTMwmHecefpm66FVxZn8AeoKjY6_haBIB361uTfOp38P4rHtvtQDibu49a9aD6yZjAjtY0KE1eHKJvtxkJ1sF6TeiVHXWtYB6cOnioHE/w400-h180/20230802_125202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-p5BqmoFInBK2bPvUOYJXUeuyDsVMZQUrGLSgQOacf1k4Uf19q9aigZKzykpbavCrFQgqHOTvmvqwXvDfinUB522zljSdX_QL_iTRoFeJR0sFBEaOr5RyOCT15PEHTp8C5exi8kwdDL5STC1sRfoTbfFuRn7opq0PRirtROVJZJOmvbRq8glOvD5uuwlo/s4032/20230802_125215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-p5BqmoFInBK2bPvUOYJXUeuyDsVMZQUrGLSgQOacf1k4Uf19q9aigZKzykpbavCrFQgqHOTvmvqwXvDfinUB522zljSdX_QL_iTRoFeJR0sFBEaOr5RyOCT15PEHTp8C5exi8kwdDL5STC1sRfoTbfFuRn7opq0PRirtROVJZJOmvbRq8glOvD5uuwlo/w288-h640/20230802_125215.jpg" width="288" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note that the small steel vice is from my Unimat lathe to the left</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Now, it isn't the prettiest version but I liked the large diameter main shaft for likely accuracy and the specification stated that the chuck would hold drill bits from 0.6 - 6.0mm. The other two vertical drills either didn't state the drill bit sizes or the minimum was larger than 0.6mm. Note the plastic vice with the red parts, this came with the vertical drill but really isn't a great deal of use, although the four red columns may be useful to hold an odd-shaped job.</p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/402325944323?hash=item5dac7eb803:g:dU4AAOSwK6JhrXPW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Cdy3RfQHJ0kf2RUIFZTOid%2B2sY5hP7m7vIUkm1IIMX4OmN2RIntnbH%2BVkqwqCljLoDGRumKZK0POGagvOFpFlgiSkm3MYI4z1eCTJLl5V398%2FIlhv8p9SHy2V9U7LrL8ue78SxQReALNPTvFQCxJsp601cpKF%2Fo7r9AwlGstgWfLV6hbMPW1cRXTUEhCJwN6B1ZsfHpuykkyvUsEBTng3JtKYor4rVDT%2Bc03tzOd0n7v0g9Km8ySNZuFa2btZy79%2BRxTNGD12LLkp3ij7ih6EGsRo58ezOeTxvfOZQKYqff%7Ctkp%3ABFBM-tPr1aJi" target="_blank">Here is the link for the vertical drill, current as of the date of this post.</a></p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/394738717953?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210609144404%26meid%3D23c2bc63a0a04b01b771881b3cebb674%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D402325944323%26itm%3D394738717953%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V2%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A39473871795323c2bc63a0a04b01b771881b3cebb674%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAAA8A%252FX5kvtcYFtPo%252BGm1mGYeoUMNFrzjLauDZdkuxQtu54xYi7%252FidkWBU97492I9UURPuAO8L%252BtxVhP4VL6Pyla3jrm0LUW%252FR6oMJ2HqVWXGDktbjsU6Q5ztZwCaAszb4iCKnO44HTG%252BLU55TTSMCt5ARY9O43UQCRq2Vv%252FEfExd86ZlX2xMfDRZJAg6yLkv0DLB8N1%252BlBZ8IqmTc8Kwzof6tK6u7PSZUGHs8ZKN%252FZPjVmRCMHtThRK2sf%252F8lE8YUKikfOcSLidRYbWL2aa6iRoLr%252BjV5diti8C3lwEQTXnclNowrto4pPZwb7Iput64Klrw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675" target="_blank">Here is another vertical drill</a>, nice and compact but with no chuck specification.</p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384996730139?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210125103646%26meid%3D9833c188c9684ef8910e789606e82b3d%26pid%3D101112%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D394738717953%26itm%3D384996730139%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2349624%26algv%3DPersonalizedV1_7%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2349624.c101112.m2109&amdata=cksum%3A3849967301399833c188c9684ef8910e789606e82b3d%7Cenc%3AAQAIAAAA8MKf8eW95V0OdHNvkmhzjwP0WfgHSSGYwJtgLJjG0PHsZdRt0jVvH9%252FM2eHZdq8UkNhA5vMfSaQ3Al4eS0yn0HxNhgl5t2%252B6wiFeH5IBFIxQKlZS88xmDKgS6Ezd3xWiibVWf9cRU5D2tbZu4rliRfvLLgXYLjvuh6HQ8vxwxc3ohiJ9DrcuMaPPKAjPbdGVH0QV%252FX2XnMG4V8y7PvtYj9qQoUPzQqKlKfkpOhjErmHVhkzs21WtvwIUB2ly27xA7o0bIR7eH13m8lWHfLIBVMstHUrySlRnWpnhQIoZqC9WkNL2V0xUUnlH1CS%252FVdaRqA%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2349624" target="_blank">And the third vertical drill</a>, this one stated the chuck capacity as 1.5 - 10mm which given the size of the vertical drill in the pictures doesn't look correct. It also looks a bit flimsy.</p><p>Of course, the drill I bought is the more expensive one, but I wasn't prepared to take the risk on either of the other two.</p><p>My drill comes with a power pack that has a multi-position switch for different voltages to give different speeds. I use it at the fastest speed as I want to use very fine drill bits.</p><p>The lever to move it up and down looks a bit basic but it gives very good control. To test the drill, I started with a 1mm drill bit, a piece of 0.5mm half-hard brass, and some cutting fluid. It is always a good choice to use cutting fluid with fine drill bits. This drilled quite well, and I followed up with a 0.45mm drill bit. Wait, now the chuck won't hold the 0.45mm bit so I used a very small chuck that I use in my cordless Dremel motor tool held in the existing chuck. I did have to check the runout of the drill bit and needed to move the chuck around a little in the larger chuck until it ran true. This is a good trick to learn. I also used a fine-marking pen to mark both the big chuck and the small one for future alignment. This 0.45mm hole also went well. At this stage, I thought, why not? I then put a 0.3mm drill bit into the small chuck and very slowly and carefully drilled through the 0.5mm half-hard brass.</p><p><a href="https://www.hobbytools.com.au/micro-chuck/?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Deals+for+Projects+Big+and+Small&utm_campaign=Thursday+27th+July" target="_blank">Here is a link to the very small chuck</a>, it isn't cheap but cheap will get you a small chuck that won't centre the drill bit or it won't hold it. This very small chuck is quoted as holding down to 0.35mm but I held the 0.3mm drill with it.</p><p>Once I had satisfied myself that this vertical drill was very good I then 3D designed and printed a jig to hold the tapered brass 'timber' posts such that I could drill a hole through the post at a right angle to the centre line of the post. I designed the jig to hold 16-foot, 18-foot, 23-foot, and 27-foot posts. This jig really makes things easier for me in preparing the signals for the kits.</p><p>So overall, I have been very pleased with this quite inexpensive purchase.</p><p>Please note that the links above were good at the time of posting.</p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-87574425358145573842023-07-24T10:56:00.001+10:002023-07-24T10:56:52.012+10:00The Best of Intentions and a Change<p> Well, my last post was my Christmas one in which I said that I would try to post more often, but that didn't work.</p><p>I am now seven months further down the track and thought I had better explain myself.</p><p>By Christmas last year I had finished putting together 22 HO NSWGR signal kits for the North Shore Model Railway Association for their Blue Mountains club and exhibition layout. These signals were about equally divided between those for Katoomba and those for Valley Heights. A number of the signals were very specific and required modification to the posts with extra signal mountings, lamps, etc.</p><p>By the time I finished them, I was near to burnout having built about 70 signals and made up 54 kits. I decided to take January off as at the time I had an order for another 12 signals to build.</p><p>By early February as I was about to start the 12 signals when over a 2-week period I ended up with 45 signals to build. After my birthday in early May when I had turned 74 I decided that I wouldn't build any more signals but just supply signal kits. I realised that I hadn't been able to do much for myself in the hobby over the previous three and a half years and this is evident with the drop off of Bylong blog posts as well. I had started several modelling projects but they were stillborn when I had to get back to the signals.</p><p>Currently, I have 23 signals left to build which I hope to get done by the end of the year. I allow about 8-10 weeks for a build run of perhaps 8-10 signals with a couple of weeks break in between.</p><p>While I was building the recent signals I spent some time perfecting some 3D-printed jigs for drilling the various holes in the brass posts with 0.45 mm drills as well as various wire bending jigs for operating rods and improving the signal instructions with tips and ways to build them.</p><p>The signal kits have the brass castings cleaned up of sprues, holes all drilled, and small operating wires bent up except for the long 0.015" steel ones from the counterweight lever to the bellcrank or linear servo but this is covered in the instructions. White and black decals are supplied for the stripes on the signal arms as well. The bases are 3D printed for either the bellcrank type or the type for the small linear servos. I even have narrow versions for placing between tracks that are too close together. The signal range has posts with up to 3 signal arm positions although I did do a one-off signal with four arms down the post with linear servos. I can supply posts drilled to accept castings for the signal arm mounting bracket, the lamp, and the counterweight bracket for 1, 2, or 3 counterweight levers. To match the number of counterweight levers there are extra pulleys for the bottom of the post. I can supply the posts drilled for these extra fittings as required. Some of the 3D-printed drilling jigs were designed for this purpose.</p><p>Here are examples of some of the signal types I have built and can supply as kits.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVlo9onF309KZ7vNFM5jafE6otVQofEoTJH9vRPzqG5jR8R0DbdYxwHK7feWmWAVA7sdklFC9--sjMQ302WZ0opS7LZcdtJ_XDhH_0ct4eeQ1amlSbnMPvA3fmV6T5ynBlAwRNkY1c20HrYD2UWEqACYnEHvo4k0Ndt9VKdzCF5Ban2ZKci8FUgqx1kK9/s4032/20221003_172512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1816" data-original-width="4032" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVlo9onF309KZ7vNFM5jafE6otVQofEoTJH9vRPzqG5jR8R0DbdYxwHK7feWmWAVA7sdklFC9--sjMQ302WZ0opS7LZcdtJ_XDhH_0ct4eeQ1amlSbnMPvA3fmV6T5ynBlAwRNkY1c20HrYD2UWEqACYnEHvo4k0Ndt9VKdzCF5Ban2ZKci8FUgqx1kK9/s320/20221003_172512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83f5neSch9cr7lDWUWI-ER5xydTXQgXRnl8AUMKXPUVtY1FtxTZTtPjFeboQqnWUa8PCUh5j_A9M6KebX7fxu8EK10Iz9Rah1xmNXOJy5qe3VA-4OTFWpx90mzggdTIgX7QMoAXLgxU1Y50ItzISsBKA0Ojca03g7UxberRAA_N89GTPVSO0M9x3f9tzQ/s4032/18ft%20LQ%20Signal%20Siding%20Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83f5neSch9cr7lDWUWI-ER5xydTXQgXRnl8AUMKXPUVtY1FtxTZTtPjFeboQqnWUa8PCUh5j_A9M6KebX7fxu8EK10Iz9Rah1xmNXOJy5qe3VA-4OTFWpx90mzggdTIgX7QMoAXLgxU1Y50ItzISsBKA0Ojca03g7UxberRAA_N89GTPVSO0M9x3f9tzQ/s320/18ft%20LQ%20Signal%20Siding%20Arm.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILkzzDrg7OL0egKLGzvJFnbvvQiICiBYNWRN0YCqRoBkwF-tH9vltCwOqpaveKlTJH1Z8tiV9aIJlk9QQZt6HvDQal--hJ6mk85zkNtAFs_6ZtkqTK0ZkxKQrCnXkmaA7ZbSFIuD8P1iYS9kuYmQ1-G_kMm47Ub02-j0rvCUWZdj4JVrIiksXu-yb3hI9/s4032/27ft%20LQ%20Signal%2039inch%20arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILkzzDrg7OL0egKLGzvJFnbvvQiICiBYNWRN0YCqRoBkwF-tH9vltCwOqpaveKlTJH1Z8tiV9aIJlk9QQZt6HvDQal--hJ6mk85zkNtAFs_6ZtkqTK0ZkxKQrCnXkmaA7ZbSFIuD8P1iYS9kuYmQ1-G_kMm47Ub02-j0rvCUWZdj4JVrIiksXu-yb3hI9/s320/27ft%20LQ%20Signal%2039inch%20arm.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWdNyMg1EC6tOqwDDFfTFEIpHEKs0txWK-VppA_K9B4_thnT2Yn8UHGsfaDJAV4nN7pVFgulyFC8lfyuCoVgYGzsSQges-ize7uYAaLnH3JWWy-xH_ULrCnotrIGqkJImkie4tJVNhHbuG04HTP1W6_sPbYi_c8op3NAHK8MB114aO2H3Vlgffov3Pq3dq/s4032/Moss%20Vale%2018ft%20Signal%20with%20Dead%20End%20arm%20on%20Small%20Cast%20Iron%20Bracket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWdNyMg1EC6tOqwDDFfTFEIpHEKs0txWK-VppA_K9B4_thnT2Yn8UHGsfaDJAV4nN7pVFgulyFC8lfyuCoVgYGzsSQges-ize7uYAaLnH3JWWy-xH_ULrCnotrIGqkJImkie4tJVNhHbuG04HTP1W6_sPbYi_c8op3NAHK8MB114aO2H3Vlgffov3Pq3dq/s320/Moss%20Vale%2018ft%20Signal%20with%20Dead%20End%20arm%20on%20Small%20Cast%20Iron%20Bracket.jpg" width="144" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Yes, the small arm works - Moss Vale signal</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gxJPLQj072nsTrP8_BFQxgZuL0o-yQGHBKfceBBsTdcbVGXObqzAw6iJjRB1Uqtr59IGNHC1cszW8nyewNSRTBMSf5-II2XWJOGMEBKzTEEZKCw80YqWbJ2kV4YtGXM3MM7zjqlI73wsEliouFVbKV15MNeIyI_pBlODGD55Paqt_lJYGxWNf0tJH6sf/s4032/Moss%20Vale%2035ft%20Co-Acting%20Signal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gxJPLQj072nsTrP8_BFQxgZuL0o-yQGHBKfceBBsTdcbVGXObqzAw6iJjRB1Uqtr59IGNHC1cszW8nyewNSRTBMSf5-II2XWJOGMEBKzTEEZKCw80YqWbJ2kV4YtGXM3MM7zjqlI73wsEliouFVbKV15MNeIyI_pBlODGD55Paqt_lJYGxWNf0tJH6sf/s320/Moss%20Vale%2035ft%20Co-Acting%20Signal.jpg" width="144" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">35 ft co-acting signal from Moss Vale</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhOPpRaygh1MxCMWMHNeMMTX7Z097KWq3nzohvvPUz89u44SyncpdkV62T6XZ-6lftu8u6B-g-BdjdZ-3ukFK0OugxWGIWccn6rPjBx5oOkMz7UYM8uOkdTeYD-1juNY7csSOteDss-Oy2cX2BgNkRV6-qkzKRiIg1c2TDDIcYU9rQdaERwjtkLFfLg38/s4032/Moss%20Vale%20Branch%20Bracket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhOPpRaygh1MxCMWMHNeMMTX7Z097KWq3nzohvvPUz89u44SyncpdkV62T6XZ-6lftu8u6B-g-BdjdZ-3ukFK0OugxWGIWccn6rPjBx5oOkMz7UYM8uOkdTeYD-1juNY7csSOteDss-Oy2cX2BgNkRV6-qkzKRiIg1c2TDDIcYU9rQdaERwjtkLFfLg38/s320/Moss%20Vale%20Branch%20Bracket.jpg" width="144" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Another Moss Vale signal with a working small low arm</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9c5GNGxXdNxAXycr-fzrPbcn4y2_893zPgJPAVjdoPcClYuVG3WgzyMe82cDZfOM7OOIthiOZt9WZnh4f9-tK7RL4TkRnoHx2uaN99sp9AZCXmkNsZGcJYuxiGhavtmbrBSDkPzCxCkqc3msjuSamjmx_C8iUM_Wl3uxqrGHH-PMCWEPb0X2qXSvzSZY/s4032/Moss%20Vale%20Down%20Starting%20Bracket%20Signal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV9c5GNGxXdNxAXycr-fzrPbcn4y2_893zPgJPAVjdoPcClYuVG3WgzyMe82cDZfOM7OOIthiOZt9WZnh4f9-tK7RL4TkRnoHx2uaN99sp9AZCXmkNsZGcJYuxiGhavtmbrBSDkPzCxCkqc3msjuSamjmx_C8iUM_Wl3uxqrGHH-PMCWEPb0X2qXSvzSZY/s320/Moss%20Vale%20Down%20Starting%20Bracket%20Signal.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Also from Moss Vale</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywFj9XXFc4oPtZiiFrw4ScD4-nLXvWMi_xl71_ZgMiiq9y-h9Gza5wzkkIfxmxL_RARwE2X1JoXFQ7cYvG3ECsqnTd7VJMDM9xfiNxsoDV2NwUK9gUIHg9HEkz1EwkHNALs6BnFQsh_1rG8R5uyoYNl4GO826b2nDMS14cAF3xghdG08tXLv12jveNUWv/s4032/Moss%20Vale%20LH%20Backet%20with%20lower%20Siding%20arm%20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywFj9XXFc4oPtZiiFrw4ScD4-nLXvWMi_xl71_ZgMiiq9y-h9Gza5wzkkIfxmxL_RARwE2X1JoXFQ7cYvG3ECsqnTd7VJMDM9xfiNxsoDV2NwUK9gUIHg9HEkz1EwkHNALs6BnFQsh_1rG8R5uyoYNl4GO826b2nDMS14cAF3xghdG08tXLv12jveNUWv/s320/Moss%20Vale%20LH%20Backet%20with%20lower%20Siding%20arm%20.jpg" width="144" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">And another Moss Vale signal</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsLAuotSbuJ3HoAVBympjaQsJiSHmWMplZKPcvaStUO2abniMlKRQhFgqe3mbofXIMZ3ipM5eeOf6a6ko9mrknnJW2LnCXEeN6882cjn-deB2d0TqhImn3w2YACj1C0o0HpTVBa_2XpgsqrB8kYDJpVRrxd8G_4XnIE5OAqEG7CIe-EaiUQ2rxdWVFR0wx/s4032/Moss%20Vale%20UQ%20arm%20and%20LQ%2036%20inch%20arm%20Steel%20Slat%20RH%20Bracket%20-%20Finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsLAuotSbuJ3HoAVBympjaQsJiSHmWMplZKPcvaStUO2abniMlKRQhFgqe3mbofXIMZ3ipM5eeOf6a6ko9mrknnJW2LnCXEeN6882cjn-deB2d0TqhImn3w2YACj1C0o0HpTVBa_2XpgsqrB8kYDJpVRrxd8G_4XnIE5OAqEG7CIe-EaiUQ2rxdWVFR0wx/s320/Moss%20Vale%20UQ%20arm%20and%20LQ%2036%20inch%20arm%20Steel%20Slat%20RH%20Bracket%20-%20Finished.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Moss Vale again</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEign-eUVVSGUM2rU0owN4DiWBgJbUmM8XnU1jp9oyQz0x37J-cVbVkYxXNo6xQV4X8CWquK6b3EwjHrCPCvTRQbiAII6lIUmlZ0HA-oytcT4pJOQvF7-HQTkErvImLR7JDslYe3SXDjdNhzkkQNNXMwlxv_gVCosp91trygeXzXSE1DhGKvnROh2ThPwpuu/s2048/Cooma%20Railway%20Station%20-%20Tim%20Preddey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1390" data-original-width="2048" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEign-eUVVSGUM2rU0owN4DiWBgJbUmM8XnU1jp9oyQz0x37J-cVbVkYxXNo6xQV4X8CWquK6b3EwjHrCPCvTRQbiAII6lIUmlZ0HA-oytcT4pJOQvF7-HQTkErvImLR7JDslYe3SXDjdNhzkkQNNXMwlxv_gVCosp91trygeXzXSE1DhGKvnROh2ThPwpuu/s320/Cooma%20Railway%20Station%20-%20Tim%20Preddey.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Here are two signals on Tim Preddy's Cooma layout. The blurry bracket in the foreground is here below.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlSxMoZxUzQZMPg_YbRjPLREGNYEiugQ_p0og-K6LCUs6oW7-I_1cn9XAJiSHVSzb4oQkKibhGI2LYUT3dobSqvNE8e7D7RIOVBBaL2MYhmqjthrIBsQ_gSvCBjvTDiRmYOs2FasTe0WCkA6KrcBJi8J7NilyRw7NJs-pdeYTP2trx-yVu74psPWNl7eg7/s4032/Cooma%20Starter%20Steel%20Slat%20Bracket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlSxMoZxUzQZMPg_YbRjPLREGNYEiugQ_p0og-K6LCUs6oW7-I_1cn9XAJiSHVSzb4oQkKibhGI2LYUT3dobSqvNE8e7D7RIOVBBaL2MYhmqjthrIBsQ_gSvCBjvTDiRmYOs2FasTe0WCkA6KrcBJi8J7NilyRw7NJs-pdeYTP2trx-yVu74psPWNl7eg7/s320/Cooma%20Starter%20Steel%20Slat%20Bracket.jpg" width="144" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIij-dvQ6fdQ0znpgzYy-yRhVr_JSn69ZqGMIOOguAiSZj6NWCjjHJTYFvlLRwxHS6aY_8Y21G8Mv40ul7QwDLiuBhzQlZbCqN2aPD7wdTxrn6sdEmX4K147BhYOV0kQ98TUnPQNr1dxo2ElPPN0DAuj45habDy0wEtyeuI4IMGy-4M4wJzmnSJOO22KT/s2364/Steel%20RH%20Bracket%203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2364" data-original-width="1426" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIij-dvQ6fdQ0znpgzYy-yRhVr_JSn69ZqGMIOOguAiSZj6NWCjjHJTYFvlLRwxHS6aY_8Y21G8Mv40ul7QwDLiuBhzQlZbCqN2aPD7wdTxrn6sdEmX4K147BhYOV0kQ98TUnPQNr1dxo2ElPPN0DAuj45habDy0wEtyeuI4IMGy-4M4wJzmnSJOO22KT/s320/Steel%20RH%20Bracket%203.jpg" width="193" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Available in this steel tubular type are a 23 foot signal, a 27 foot signal, left and right brackets</div><p>Here is an example of one production run, I think this one took longer. :-)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkPvAEkogc74ct8XWspmzumrANqg1wXaRZryDjEc5Vt1KuaInajtjkgpAIDHfKpBEacJzZzI9Jw58BSlV8ihIJXm2n0HOVruG6gcPYoPk2YqPbQsQ9K4wNZ8Kiuk9yOvztFfxdn-eiQYe8NLt4JgLLl5mFjV_1zgR2r9K-q8jA_RjRyZi9zHTll3pbm9sG/s4032/20210809_135102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkPvAEkogc74ct8XWspmzumrANqg1wXaRZryDjEc5Vt1KuaInajtjkgpAIDHfKpBEacJzZzI9Jw58BSlV8ihIJXm2n0HOVruG6gcPYoPk2YqPbQsQ9K4wNZ8Kiuk9yOvztFfxdn-eiQYe8NLt4JgLLl5mFjV_1zgR2r9K-q8jA_RjRyZi9zHTll3pbm9sG/s320/20210809_135102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Another recent production run.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgm3bXyiNmdekuijj2a1usZXh1d22lP_RwO97id453eJP5yTOd3rXelLKdQor72tad-T-61dINGuUhNQZqk_uRGtvfAH6CptcZH9v9JjIyDsj1Qi5sulis2QxLfdbYYRjVr5HMmdfmisYWVMMwrvoutiIJeoasM-ns2Ngk9dwE3vg9nLF6qNmFB_8abP4/s4032/20230207_130512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1816" data-original-width="4032" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgm3bXyiNmdekuijj2a1usZXh1d22lP_RwO97id453eJP5yTOd3rXelLKdQor72tad-T-61dINGuUhNQZqk_uRGtvfAH6CptcZH9v9JjIyDsj1Qi5sulis2QxLfdbYYRjVr5HMmdfmisYWVMMwrvoutiIJeoasM-ns2Ngk9dwE3vg9nLF6qNmFB_8abP4/s320/20230207_130512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Here is a current work in progress to be added to the range, guess what and where.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFV0EG0eEuYqOpfqDM41fiHpruCHhp39_ZxKNQF6zdF-2OdXbco-Gbvd1LQpGyDyhOuzugQBUgMz0YbksWPcshUduqs51YGtqL8wsrkT7RbOECpDNWw08GOXD9wWzzENjxKEAmoubmsOJM74b_MRiHFs9UJ6MHR4OoMx9EXmHIdpJ-y_ryY1xtn1ze5bP/s4032/Fassifern%20double%20co-acting%20signals%20and%20linear%20servo%20base-mechanisms.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="1816" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXFV0EG0eEuYqOpfqDM41fiHpruCHhp39_ZxKNQF6zdF-2OdXbco-Gbvd1LQpGyDyhOuzugQBUgMz0YbksWPcshUduqs51YGtqL8wsrkT7RbOECpDNWw08GOXD9wWzzENjxKEAmoubmsOJM74b_MRiHFs9UJ6MHR4OoMx9EXmHIdpJ-y_ryY1xtn1ze5bP/s320/Fassifern%20double%20co-acting%20signals%20and%20linear%20servo%20base-mechanisms.jpg" width="144" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWQClBPUWyA4JlWDTjrwdX15Ay__hmc4krNX_TEdpcqRsBwpdMBLSDsVWKt1mwVtLrrql8j8z7OaonMYBrfdxs24bTPtDfFaX0Ny_Lk2pzyqRinGFYMa0TlHxkTRy-MUoNGV0_89Tmt10u7yomkFS1yQp2bKIjBShtp5K299L1ZxEsbucuEj52XyrODyZ/s1916/Operating%20Wires%20-%20Fassifern%20UP%20Home%20McKenzie%20and%20Holland%20LH%20Bracket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1916" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWQClBPUWyA4JlWDTjrwdX15Ay__hmc4krNX_TEdpcqRsBwpdMBLSDsVWKt1mwVtLrrql8j8z7OaonMYBrfdxs24bTPtDfFaX0Ny_Lk2pzyqRinGFYMa0TlHxkTRy-MUoNGV0_89Tmt10u7yomkFS1yQp2bKIjBShtp5K299L1ZxEsbucuEj52XyrODyZ/s320/Operating%20Wires%20-%20Fassifern%20UP%20Home%20McKenzie%20and%20Holland%20LH%20Bracket.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>And here are a few things to think about for the future.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOrqp8EdzjVzAVAyN2tNm6M5k4rriTfF3PfrgxShASziY9HMTM14zmnS94fiPBKv1rBqm24nhrZKnjrA-861-urbwGsQMlvtQCZDTpH6E53uwh8cSsllqrpH1RaZW5m_nDww5TImnr4v8kAlkdqldPMg3VDbtr6zH51fNZmmTI5VcWjE1OOUWX4_wFP-w/s1283/NSWR%20Upper%20Quadrant%20Signal%20L%20v14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="1283" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOrqp8EdzjVzAVAyN2tNm6M5k4rriTfF3PfrgxShASziY9HMTM14zmnS94fiPBKv1rBqm24nhrZKnjrA-861-urbwGsQMlvtQCZDTpH6E53uwh8cSsllqrpH1RaZW5m_nDww5TImnr4v8kAlkdqldPMg3VDbtr6zH51fNZmmTI5VcWjE1OOUWX4_wFP-w/s320/NSWR%20Upper%20Quadrant%20Signal%20L%20v14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpUf4XlB4mj0-Ofexlj7n88IHwTHyHVd0cHD7RFvjxOteNkih-QJSB4IakzWFYXjAxKoVuLVD3P-1Y-llQA7m27a7D6McaM1VjTQGuh6l84K2He2Luifzpj8eohm3-p_Qcua_aI7MEQyWppV78Aoecnm9XqNIuuNv7rkKQ3L7zYBLhLqsCEnp7Hzfa_nle/s1309/NSWR%20Upper%20Quadrant%20Signal%20R%20v14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="837" data-original-width="1309" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpUf4XlB4mj0-Ofexlj7n88IHwTHyHVd0cHD7RFvjxOteNkih-QJSB4IakzWFYXjAxKoVuLVD3P-1Y-llQA7m27a7D6McaM1VjTQGuh6l84K2He2Luifzpj8eohm3-p_Qcua_aI7MEQyWppV78Aoecnm9XqNIuuNv7rkKQ3L7zYBLhLqsCEnp7Hzfa_nle/s320/NSWR%20Upper%20Quadrant%20Signal%20R%20v14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>These are just a selection of signal kits I can supply, please contact me with any questions at:</p><p>rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au</p><p>If you contact me initially by Messenger I will request that you continue by email as that is where I keep all correspondence so best to just use email.</p><p>That will do for now, I will hopefully get back to modelling subjects other than signals soon.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-69544426979803510512022-12-21T13:54:00.002+11:002022-12-21T13:54:52.460+11:00Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year<p>Christine and I would like to wish everyone a merry Christmas and a very happy New Year. May all that you hope for come about.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0mUDMAuWjgaHS8zfkQlEq2d-QshvjisUDeBQi9-TOD5X0EFjs3Q8Cy8lto0OlxKqkY35j1OLcCbcJsxVYSBb-QKZVu0bmJ_LQ4U4Ms5CcLEZVEdUGKqccnsX-uwLagbjxHTO4w8NqpOGurMk1VAC9IA_wNkCAl3ou8s4GAdqxcni4q2hRDSiKaKJww/s3103/Merry%20Christmas%20and%20Happy%20New%20Year%20from%20Ray%20and%20Chris%20P%20-%202022.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1746" data-original-width="3103" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0mUDMAuWjgaHS8zfkQlEq2d-QshvjisUDeBQi9-TOD5X0EFjs3Q8Cy8lto0OlxKqkY35j1OLcCbcJsxVYSBb-QKZVu0bmJ_LQ4U4Ms5CcLEZVEdUGKqccnsX-uwLagbjxHTO4w8NqpOGurMk1VAC9IA_wNkCAl3ou8s4GAdqxcni4q2hRDSiKaKJww/w400-h225/Merry%20Christmas%20and%20Happy%20New%20Year%20from%20Ray%20and%20Chris%20P%20-%202022.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>This would have to be the longest break between posts for the blog. I have almost sat down to type several times, but life has become a bit complicated in the last six months. I have managed to do a couple of things on the layout as well as make some signals for others but the main situation is around a now eight-month-old puppy. The last pup we had was in 2003 and it is amazing how you forget how much work a new pup is. We have just about got it toilet-trained and it seems to be starting to quiet down so things should improve soon. It certainly cuts the day into pieces of time where I can work, or alternatively, look after the pup when Chris is having a break from doing it. However, all considered, it is a lovely little thing.</p><p>I hope to get back to posting more often next year.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-22399588869001147302022-06-12T12:06:00.004+10:002022-06-13T14:33:48.962+10:00Australian Made Servo Control Boards for DC and DCC<p>As we now know the past two years have disturbed the normal supply of many things. Among those have been my goto servo control boards from Tam Valley Depot. I have used Tam Valley Depot Singlet IIs, Tam Valley Depot Quad-Pics and a Tam Valley Depot Dual 3-Way board. Tam Valley Depot's owner Duncan McCrae stopped production due to ill health and at about the same time, COVID-19 hit the supply of electronic parts. Tam Valley Depot has since recommenced production but only a small part of its range. All of the above servo control boards are no longer being made.</p><p>As a result, I began a search for alternatives. I found suitable servo control boards in the UK as well as one in the US but given the cost of shipping, these become expensive.</p><p>I came across a local Sydney supplier, <a href="https://railconmodels.com/signalcontrol.html" target="_blank">RailCon</a> with an inexpensive range of boards in both DC and DCC versions.</p><p>At the time I was designing and printing linear servo signal bases for some US-made Tomar brand Upper Quadrant signals after an enquiry from a modeller here in Australia. Now the modeller didn't want three positions for the signal arms so I told him about the 2 position RailCon MD-003 boards so he purchased them for his signals and had them sent to me.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJ8QcxUe7-5-D9WjpKB8gV0m2WRCUg4AG62BjSL3gz9e1sTyJiLXOprLhpgPtm9u-7sBx2i5okz00UlyI2XYnUp3H4jqY_VN15LYlCdsE2SVbcwleSzW4vAS66hxJs3H0UpWEam4V7KWJ8EmohTHeCIp528088Vu-hspnJ9d3SidV-_qTb2vhFS58Hg/s4032/20220420_103356.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxJ8QcxUe7-5-D9WjpKB8gV0m2WRCUg4AG62BjSL3gz9e1sTyJiLXOprLhpgPtm9u-7sBx2i5okz00UlyI2XYnUp3H4jqY_VN15LYlCdsE2SVbcwleSzW4vAS66hxJs3H0UpWEam4V7KWJ8EmohTHeCIp528088Vu-hspnJ9d3SidV-_qTb2vhFS58Hg/w400-h225/20220420_103356.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">USA Tomar brand Upper Quadrant Signals with RailCon MD-003 Servo Slave Units</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The RailCon MD-003 boards arrived and I found them quite easy to adjust the linear servos to get the correct throw of the signal arms but the speed of the throw was too fast. I called RailCon and spoke to the owner, Jim Crew about the issue. Jim said the boards were originally designed to throw point blades so the speed wasn't an issue then., however, he said he would have a look at slowing the speed. After a couple of days, Jim said he had done it so I sent the RailCon boards to him to be updated. They arrived a week back or so later and the speed was good. This speed has now become the speed for the boards in the RailCon range as it won't have any effect on the point blades since they only move a small amount.</p><p>The RailCon <a href="https://railconmodels.com/md-003.html" target="_blank">MD-003 Servo Motor Slave Unit</a> will drive 2 servos and is priced at $24.60 which is $12.30 per servo output. The board requires a 12 Volt DC power supply.</p><p>For use on a DC layout, the MD-003 is used as is but for DCC the $24.85 <a href="https://railconmodels.com/sd-001.html" target="_blank">SD-001 Central Control Unit</a> is required. The SD-001 board connects to 4 <a href="https://railconmodels.com/sd-009.html" target="_blank">SD-009 Servo Motor Slave Units</a>. This gives $15.40 per DCC servo output.</p><p>While talking to Jim I asked about the possibility of a 3 position servo board for our NSWGR Upper Quadrant signals and he said he would look at it. About two weeks later Jim said he had a 3 position board and could I test it, the answer of course was yes.</p><p>Here is a video of a HO NSWGR Upper Quadrant signal arm being moved by the 3-position servo board. As I didn't have any Upper Quadrant bracket signals under construction I set up the Upper Quadrant arm on a Lower Quadrant timber post from my range.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kZKzr4E5YCQ" width="320" youtube-src-id="kZKzr4E5YCQ"></iframe></div><p>As you can see the arm moves through the correct sequence going from CLEAR (vertical) to STOP (horizontal) in one movement then From STOP to CAUTION (45 Degrees) and then finally back to STOP. A three-position switch can be used to change the signal but the software has been written to ignore the centre switch position when moving from CLEAR to STOP. Of course, other switching methods can be used such as DCC, track detectors, relays, etc.</p><p>The <a href="https://railconmodels.com/md-003a.html" target="_blank">MD-003a Servo Slave Unit</a> is the 3-position Upper Quadrant version and is $24.00. The MD-003a is for DC and only controls one servo as the existing MD-003 printed circuit board has been used with three input connections instead of the four inputs (2 pairs) of the MD-003 unit. This was the simplest and least expensive way for RailCon to give us a 3-position option.</p><p>Although the website hasn't been updated as yet there is a DCC 3-position version, the SD-009a Servo Motor Slave Unit, The <a href="https://railconmodels.com/sd-001.html" target="_blank">SD-001 Central Control Unit</a> will support 4 SD-009a Servo Motor Slave Units to control 4 servos in total.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrj8zspX-eAlxhBXyqu-qWweXo8sa5Rf8I1ICDzIzFRwOL2EHPPsCPaxEXV6CyAmwqOZruwmRlz6DcyZ1kk593o4998Y6q78OngAQtJ3i_z2RsM7GbnpfndXvlKKDEQ2VQzUMYmB8GIxt1ui3rysH0jT1IoU4Iqyl0SS9t_M2kIOS0NOJ62g_wsA_Syw/s4032/20220403_102242.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrj8zspX-eAlxhBXyqu-qWweXo8sa5Rf8I1ICDzIzFRwOL2EHPPsCPaxEXV6CyAmwqOZruwmRlz6DcyZ1kk593o4998Y6q78OngAQtJ3i_z2RsM7GbnpfndXvlKKDEQ2VQzUMYmB8GIxt1ui3rysH0jT1IoU4Iqyl0SS9t_M2kIOS0NOJ62g_wsA_Syw/w225-h400/20220403_102242.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">One of my NSWGR Steel Bracket Signals with<br />Upper Quadrant and Lower Quadrant signal arms</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I hope you have found this information useful and I think that RailCon should be supported as it is a very good local product.</p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-36995508864094993782022-03-26T10:14:00.001+11:002022-03-26T10:47:31.256+11:00Wollar Roundhouse Completed Finally<p>Way back in <a href="https://bylong.blogspot.com/2011/06/" target="_blank">June 2011</a> and <a href="https://bylong.blogspot.com/2011/07/" target="_blank">July 2011</a>, I did several posts on my build of an Anton's Roundhouse kit (click on the links above or see the old posts list to the right and down).</p><p>Well, I finally decided that I needed to finish it, only 10 years late.</p><p>The problem that stopped me originally was the large rear windows that were wrong, or at least based on a plan and some photos I have of the type.</p><p>I measured the existing window frames of the model and worked out that I needed to modify them to get the windows anywhere near correct. The problem is that the roundhouse is designed to go with the Anton 75 foot turntable and the turntable has incorrect spacing(read angle) of the radiating tracks. This angle difference means that the rear walls of each stall are wider than they should be and this makes the proportions of the windows in the rear wall look wrong. It also became apparent that some of the rear wall framing was incorrect. I worked out what I needed to do to make things look proportionally correct even if not dimensionally so.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNV6wdMLBFZc-pV4O0EpRmFE2bi3VERljPOYzFFwimfEhbLU4COe6rXuT3PcyMtydLxif8GfuxFxd_UnrguJ_xDDiKTj8KCxN0WEH8HeT1JYymD6kM9ZxcAjrAIswNppLp9W_thWEvUTD47QKGIeEihac20pon7YFpzdJ6DKJxNR8OCsbDLoPc8nLwPQ/s1024/Cowra%20Roundhouse%20rear%20windows%203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="1024" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNV6wdMLBFZc-pV4O0EpRmFE2bi3VERljPOYzFFwimfEhbLU4COe6rXuT3PcyMtydLxif8GfuxFxd_UnrguJ_xDDiKTj8KCxN0WEH8HeT1JYymD6kM9ZxcAjrAIswNppLp9W_thWEvUTD47QKGIeEihac20pon7YFpzdJ6DKJxNR8OCsbDLoPc8nLwPQ/w400-h259/Cowra%20Roundhouse%20rear%20windows%203.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cowra Roundhouse rear windows showing proportions</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>I turned my computer on and drew up some replacement window frames and the two different size windows in Sketchup for 3D printing.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarr-C10isPAVJgRN0r3xRun4utkSm91x5XhZ9u-CgtzLxOj8byP0jogPYh-Mvn3QeSvO10B8zRkz5zHR-_OZG6QQFqxV_l6MyO29koyKebMmsxLznr9yite1PxPYboaZdN0niAete-5p4XljoOy9CGWhq3djZTBHb_Dovp4ffQ56a5YOmttpwh-v-tg/s4032/20210810_165907.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarr-C10isPAVJgRN0r3xRun4utkSm91x5XhZ9u-CgtzLxOj8byP0jogPYh-Mvn3QeSvO10B8zRkz5zHR-_OZG6QQFqxV_l6MyO29koyKebMmsxLznr9yite1PxPYboaZdN0niAete-5p4XljoOy9CGWhq3djZTBHb_Dovp4ffQ56a5YOmttpwh-v-tg/w400-h225/20210810_165907.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">This view shows that the model framing for the windows is quite wrong</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The smoke vents that I made from various Evergreen strips and sheet can be seen in the above photo. These days I would of course draw them up and 3D print them. It is amazing how much 3D printers have added to my enjoyment of the hobby.</p><p>After printing a frame and some windows I checked how they might look. Apart from being wrongly placed the large louvres above the centre of the windows then looked too tall.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepW4l3B4zeCcApzjIL9XQ1DXyzxitAdTelzz680hV8ZSv5H20S8T-DMq4W-NDBJSkQdpt6O_8s7PGoSebpmMeRF0BO04SycBG3eBBryewq-2P46HMq5ExamQXW9wWtodtUQstiY11aUN2f1Ds9vMp_YD9fJZKEhlCAim5m1LUr4kvjOe0DAmcwpotsQ/s4032/20210811_141541.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepW4l3B4zeCcApzjIL9XQ1DXyzxitAdTelzz680hV8ZSv5H20S8T-DMq4W-NDBJSkQdpt6O_8s7PGoSebpmMeRF0BO04SycBG3eBBryewq-2P46HMq5ExamQXW9wWtodtUQstiY11aUN2f1Ds9vMp_YD9fJZKEhlCAim5m1LUr4kvjOe0DAmcwpotsQ/w400-h225/20210811_141541.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Incorrect framing cutaway and printed frame and windows in place</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The large louvre supplied with the kit was then replaced with a shorter 3D printed louvre.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOvlWYbKuPd8rr_d6bA0gap9IkGFotD_rosQy1pTjmHeQJMsEs7G4ni5aILay59QIXz8noSA0txJwdURiB_r_Ehl0BXCUvlKNrfvx08XFF1wneC_y1aQk-apGgEzWuTaGhBmOgWGwz2eDzlVAmaEi63lDvgEL40FlTcXWuhnXjV-VHWbNEi0WG8T-ww/s4032/20210813_155314.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEOvlWYbKuPd8rr_d6bA0gap9IkGFotD_rosQy1pTjmHeQJMsEs7G4ni5aILay59QIXz8noSA0txJwdURiB_r_Ehl0BXCUvlKNrfvx08XFF1wneC_y1aQk-apGgEzWuTaGhBmOgWGwz2eDzlVAmaEi63lDvgEL40FlTcXWuhnXjV-VHWbNEi0WG8T-ww/w400-h225/20210813_155314.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All 3D printed frames, windows and new smaller louvres are in place.</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The windows and window frames were printed on a filament printer with PLA filament and a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.1mm layer height. <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QPzd8EKpcITbocTFl5jdL1mrqqCLAQ22?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Here are the STL files</a> for those who wish to use them to improve the Anton's roundhouse. The link points to a folder with the STL files. Please note that there are two small window STL files as the 0.4mm nozzle made slight variations in the window frame, a function of the printer trying to get the frame dimensions correct but needing to accommodate the nozzle size I guess. The difference is only tiny but it can stop the wider small window from fitting into the frame. It is best to print one each of the wide and narrow small windows first then try them in the window frame to work out how many of each size you will need. </div><div><br /></div><div>I spray painted the roundhouse 'timber' frame with a very dark grey and brush painted the windows and lower roundhouse wall with off-white.</div><div><br /></div><div>After painting, I was able to clad the roundhouse with Evergreen corrugated sheet. It used up quite a lot of the sheet that I had been collecting over the intervening years. I found that each piece of sheeting had to be measured carefully to fit as no wall or roof section of the roundhouse seemed to be exactly the same size as another notionally equivalent section.</div><div><br /></div><div>A light grey was applied to the walls and roof cladding. The edges of the various corrugated sheets were drawn with a fine point pencil to show each corrugated iron sheet. The roof corrugated iron sheets were delineated with black pastel powder and a brush to dirty up the roof. Further weathering will be applied with rust pastel powder until I am satisfied with the look.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSz0hbyF8lp59i_R8Z2IMtXEOk-JsnfVbCx9VUXPiRip8xnLC6eUOF5_TGA77GlNlM6_V_Ij2G1EkTBPBIChM11Sy_ekzXC_m5v-zOay2YORQofGvXjoSGVe1DXA1pTLrZUlttBu6SjX0lFNs9dpnAhloXjFwAwZA-Dhybtga_S54yCWupt4PE94rxg/s5447/Wollar%20Roundhouse%203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2974" data-original-width="5447" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSz0hbyF8lp59i_R8Z2IMtXEOk-JsnfVbCx9VUXPiRip8xnLC6eUOF5_TGA77GlNlM6_V_Ij2G1EkTBPBIChM11Sy_ekzXC_m5v-zOay2YORQofGvXjoSGVe1DXA1pTLrZUlttBu6SjX0lFNs9dpnAhloXjFwAwZA-Dhybtga_S54yCWupt4PE94rxg/w400-h219/Wollar%20Roundhouse%203.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOeBbKFynSR0LDMh6smTTCgTaNxrOWO11ZmnoiDgBzBj004ozAXQOrE4AuKrns1NLBAsVsCzQvRmKT_y1ktfVF-wpsVjhTQQKkUBlMQszGlXdv6taXgwlptk9Rn0lJ4jiJE2gt3fvAtzWmtiLFv0Hap-t_kkIHAFaUfjBNiH4qujrbkuOLKieCn3ZMw/s5646/Wollar%20Roundhouse%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2466" data-original-width="5646" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOeBbKFynSR0LDMh6smTTCgTaNxrOWO11ZmnoiDgBzBj004ozAXQOrE4AuKrns1NLBAsVsCzQvRmKT_y1ktfVF-wpsVjhTQQKkUBlMQszGlXdv6taXgwlptk9Rn0lJ4jiJE2gt3fvAtzWmtiLFv0Hap-t_kkIHAFaUfjBNiH4qujrbkuOLKieCn3ZMw/w400-h175/Wollar%20Roundhouse%202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM68KIFYBpOHA-W_R-CGvXChiXKhr0S-vY4k57l5ehDF7NszmdpjEsfnXEMfG49bTHJJrGJVGeJecHCjCvSOp4DlBCmuSiG1luBTDgU_2m5Fk78lQcoVIysce5sMSmXtsh9NbXku3DnP9kSRfhAEYFEpSjIW_cbMaIV3gluD7I_xpBDClHkYgdKA8zhQ/s5898/Wollar%20Roundhouse%205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1802" data-original-width="5898" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM68KIFYBpOHA-W_R-CGvXChiXKhr0S-vY4k57l5ehDF7NszmdpjEsfnXEMfG49bTHJJrGJVGeJecHCjCvSOp4DlBCmuSiG1luBTDgU_2m5Fk78lQcoVIysce5sMSmXtsh9NbXku3DnP9kSRfhAEYFEpSjIW_cbMaIV3gluD7I_xpBDClHkYgdKA8zhQ/w400-h122/Wollar%20Roundhouse%205.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>After all the work on the rear windows, the roundhouse is placed such that the rear can't be seen, but I know they are looking a lot better and especially through the front of the roundhouse.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-1853886023193567422022-01-18T14:13:00.002+11:002022-01-20T18:18:20.408+11:00Casula Hobbies Z19 1954 - Modification of the Marker Lighting<p>My Casula Hobbies Z19 arrived a couple of days ago, a lovely little model and it runs really well. A big well done to Joe and his technical team.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgg0W0YqfGyySsJ7GpCdZ3BtC2Rzit309hWXjqU_AvxqapKfOr91_la8MlVxkaJUSfIj9feIHF4tEPR9CTq_HxSCgjdc3L67geO5tNyRuoMJWjmVQadjGYcVT30zTE2O9KScv515N-8YWwCm11K0gH6VkvXD68TjvMVZSt3rzG8ryKYR1o4KyEBYIQScA=s4032" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgg0W0YqfGyySsJ7GpCdZ3BtC2Rzit309hWXjqU_AvxqapKfOr91_la8MlVxkaJUSfIj9feIHF4tEPR9CTq_HxSCgjdc3L67geO5tNyRuoMJWjmVQadjGYcVT30zTE2O9KScv515N-8YWwCm11K0gH6VkvXD68TjvMVZSt3rzG8ryKYR1o4KyEBYIQScA=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casula Hobbies Z19 1954 fresh out of the box</td></tr></tbody></table><p>I had ordered 1957 but received 1954 for some reason, perhaps too many had ordered 1957 and I missed out. I don't mind though as 1954 is the same Baldwin tendered version with cut-out cab and cowcatcher. Given the COVID-19 situation, I wasn't up to taking it back or going to the Post Office to send it. Christine and I had our booster shots today and we won't be getting out and about until two weeks after.</p><p>I am not a fan of Loksound although I do have four Loksound 4 decoders in some steam locos. I decided that I would take the Z19 with the Loksound 5 sound option as I investigated the Loksound 5 Micro Next 18 decoder and determined that there were two extra power outputs that I could use to improve the marker lighting.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGb2HXfer2cNkiPKk8aJmbnmVjO2F909wS27GMSMnNK3pa5eSYvGnLMwdgErGL9USTmF19gIQc3Q-oDAK84XFujW5l-JUQb6TDgv3OspzaT5sb_jM8mTr1Fgj1mfxHzUJDE9df559GUDbAuD4FQCvT_zinNyKpvWuYLFjdnzspJzNyqZGjtsikbyd7Kg=s1116" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="388" data-original-width="1116" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGb2HXfer2cNkiPKk8aJmbnmVjO2F909wS27GMSMnNK3pa5eSYvGnLMwdgErGL9USTmF19gIQc3Q-oDAK84XFujW5l-JUQb6TDgv3OspzaT5sb_jM8mTr1Fgj1mfxHzUJDE9df559GUDbAuD4FQCvT_zinNyKpvWuYLFjdnzspJzNyqZGjtsikbyd7Kg=w400-h139" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ESU LokSound 5 Micro DCC Next18 output diagram</td></tr></tbody></table><p>It is obvious why the marker lights were set up the way they came as the soldering of the extra wires is perhaps not a great idea for a production model as it restricts the decoder from being a simple plug-in for the modeller who wants to add sound later.</p><p>Now, the exploded schematic of the model that is supplied in the box shows that there are four screws but they are mostly hidden beneath the ends of the front and rear bogies.</p><p><b><span style="color: red;">Warning, do not do what I did</span></b>. I unscrewed the bogies at their pivots and then tried to move the bogies to clear the body mounting screws. The bogies have pickup wires through the tender floor and can't be moved far. I did manage to just clear the rear bogie to unscrew the rear body mounting screws but in trying this at the front a disconnected one of the bogie chains. Now, the chain is glued over a short small peg on the end of the bogie side frame and it was a nightmare glueing it back when I had finished.</p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">The best way</span></b> to access the tender body mounting screws is to carefully spread the bogie side frames and pop the axle out that is over each screw position. Don't bend the side frames out too far as the axle ends run in a metal inner frame for the electrical pickup.</p><p>Anyway, back to the reason for accessing the two extra outputs. The marker lights on the model are able to be switched on and off and are independent of the headlight(s). The model marker lights are designed to have white at the front and red at the rear when moving forward and the reverse of this when moving backwards. This is not prototypical when pulling a train as the red lights should be off.</p><p>Here is a photo of the underside of the Loksound 5 Micro Next18 decoder showing the additional output solder tabs which are AUX5 and AUX6. There are three other outputs but they are logic level and will not power a LED without some additional circuitry.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjtNArqQ9vdThXIWaRHeKNFyMJi6nteQdIH8ygoT9UUP5yiF9NDFwwIk3UDAwhSaXe-BmvtmNkYKJdxBYdH-koHq763AfFBFaVWQCuq78ezcvdiZ4Grxe9Huhqfnn4dMxD_W0ObFtgr7NkDyeLjoCtFD0Kvog1B0RcwUxcfL0-QW3eYWkdrcl-_Frqc5w=s1978" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1112" data-original-width="1978" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjtNArqQ9vdThXIWaRHeKNFyMJi6nteQdIH8ygoT9UUP5yiF9NDFwwIk3UDAwhSaXe-BmvtmNkYKJdxBYdH-koHq763AfFBFaVWQCuq78ezcvdiZ4Grxe9Huhqfnn4dMxD_W0ObFtgr7NkDyeLjoCtFD0Kvog1B0RcwUxcfL0-QW3eYWkdrcl-_Frqc5w=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The underside of LokSound 5 Micro SCC Next18 decoder<br />showing the AUX5 and AUX6 outputs</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p>The orientation of the decoder in the above photo is not the same as the ESU diagram as I decided to take the photo of the decoder in the same orientation as it is in the tender just flipped over.</p><p>In the following photos, I decided to use the number 3 output on the circuit board at the front and the number 2 output at the rear of the tender as they were easier to access with the soldering iron. These equated to the front and rear white marker light LEDs.<br /></p><p>The white wire attached to Output 3 must be unsoldered from the board as it will be soldered to a 1KOhm 1/4 Watt resistor which has another piece of white wire soldered to it. This white wire is then soldered to the AUX5 tab on the decoder.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJauWiIwEy4TRg8MQwd0xiXlmE2JPPNAjLtbk0xh7NHS5Cyg5LAU4aBGV-sV1QM2QyC53gsV1eq5Nr3jcV8tcvPa0-IjsErZF8EgOBybGucRtCcCsrUsuWwrFcFo3r5RTMNoKXH3PoE1iuJCW6nqGSFDslzAUQ6Kz-NIoh4z5pT1rmZQHB6dGXmmY8tw=s1978" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1112" data-original-width="1978" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJauWiIwEy4TRg8MQwd0xiXlmE2JPPNAjLtbk0xh7NHS5Cyg5LAU4aBGV-sV1QM2QyC53gsV1eq5Nr3jcV8tcvPa0-IjsErZF8EgOBybGucRtCcCsrUsuWwrFcFo3r5RTMNoKXH3PoE1iuJCW6nqGSFDslzAUQ6Kz-NIoh4z5pT1rmZQHB6dGXmmY8tw=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Output 3 white wire disconnection spot on circuit board</td></tr></tbody></table><br />The yellow wire attached to the rear yellow surface mount LED will be unsoldered from the board at the R5/C8 connection in the lower-left corner next to the speaker. The photo below shows the yellow wire already unsoldered from the R5/C8 connection spot on the circuit board. I forgot to take a photo before I unsoldered the yellow wire.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhe9WEuOUwADvoljuHwJjnC696qiQP2wQjjGMHjvT3A_ZINJa8-7ixQhyXHSujgVuavMvVlWj4xKCeg-fbzkwumyAfoPy5dWijioN-E6iQLC0HtdJ1ba5GN3h3tNJw6Lj_9Y1xkgB_QoZ6j1LydukYtafQ7qd_lLi3g4Nd_ZeKx5SKDsHCm2zY-ZwJfOg=s2727" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1533" data-original-width="2727" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhe9WEuOUwADvoljuHwJjnC696qiQP2wQjjGMHjvT3A_ZINJa8-7ixQhyXHSujgVuavMvVlWj4xKCeg-fbzkwumyAfoPy5dWijioN-E6iQLC0HtdJ1ba5GN3h3tNJw6Lj_9Y1xkgB_QoZ6j1LydukYtafQ7qd_lLi3g4Nd_ZeKx5SKDsHCm2zY-ZwJfOg=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Output 2 LED and yellow wire disconnection spot on circuit board</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The yellow wire is then soldered to a 1KOhm 1/4 Watt resistor which has another piece of yellow wire soldered to it. This yellow wire is then soldered to the AUX6 tab on the decoder. </p><p>Please note that all white wire solder joints, yellow wire solder joints and resistor leads have 0.6mm heat shrink insulation tubing applied.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiriRcrNbELD2N42Gi7z9sJyegfWqcnUCl7JOaj9jWB7Hunj0bZ0-ijp1BbCgcOh3meRWl4Z25hBTn_gbvScsIzewGW7Is46U_q1BR40WPffKnx4Wtle6GDXWsEzx7ReYH4L-7DY0ve5qZqHksJP8qSl-sy44vbLFnTFMA7dP_O8rHCTnw3Hg_SyAQFDA=s4032" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiriRcrNbELD2N42Gi7z9sJyegfWqcnUCl7JOaj9jWB7Hunj0bZ0-ijp1BbCgcOh3meRWl4Z25hBTn_gbvScsIzewGW7Is46U_q1BR40WPffKnx4Wtle6GDXWsEzx7ReYH4L-7DY0ve5qZqHksJP8qSl-sy44vbLFnTFMA7dP_O8rHCTnw3Hg_SyAQFDA=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Extra marker light wiring and resistors in place</td></tr></tbody></table><p>After re-wiring, I now have each pair of white and red marker lights on a separate function button. So the marker lights are a bit more prototypical.</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>White marker lights at the front when and red markers on the tender when running light (locomotive by itself). The reverse when running tender first of course.</li><li>White marker lights at the front when on a train and no red markers on the tender.</li><li>Red marker lights at both ends when shunting.</li></ul><p></p><p>When testing the marker lights I found that if the red markers are on and you turn on the white markers then the white dominates the red and you can't even see a tinge of the red.</p><p>Once the re-wire was complete I weathered 1954 and added a crew.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjb78U90Cgy-00uzSlUDrp3Vy6c4OpoT1-TN0jWteiJZQuIxSTU4HKB3MvY8P0y8sqk4OWhyedbpxVSIidKCA2GO4YfsM_duQ33SRgbYarffq3x9Dp4NxDrKUw15Ie2HIS70TeB_69Ipoz2xkJJ8invCWJCIpEzuExk7jfFuD5Zg7u86OmTZRkY9cN1vw=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjb78U90Cgy-00uzSlUDrp3Vy6c4OpoT1-TN0jWteiJZQuIxSTU4HKB3MvY8P0y8sqk4OWhyedbpxVSIidKCA2GO4YfsM_duQ33SRgbYarffq3x9Dp4NxDrKUw15Ie2HIS70TeB_69Ipoz2xkJJ8invCWJCIpEzuExk7jfFuD5Zg7u86OmTZRkY9cN1vw=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhiQiAqYh435Y08sbQw1tSM_54ezA_wnu9qHwZZVqrwBIjQfZhtMmMXRabIiQMICi_TS4jK7DAYFORrQ9fwlsFqmB9t90WKr59_SO0RLYgJDl5ZJ9ddm922_6fxwMRT_zlukB97uCh3gsdanO9_fOCd9Ffkmo0rV3MyPi4zTECSYqHIQH_zIZe9e0P3pQ=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhiQiAqYh435Y08sbQw1tSM_54ezA_wnu9qHwZZVqrwBIjQfZhtMmMXRabIiQMICi_TS4jK7DAYFORrQ9fwlsFqmB9t90WKr59_SO0RLYgJDl5ZJ9ddm922_6fxwMRT_zlukB97uCh3gsdanO9_fOCd9Ffkmo0rV3MyPi4zTECSYqHIQH_zIZe9e0P3pQ=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhg6Ky0rGkyFS1k5DR7-cHeXKGok9aEpqXnF0zEN1z12vjtMk-T8BZ5xGhuqP5F6k2WHNghCgal5RSHC7QRMESVAE2KsxTyY2s9Onzzx6qBPDrtTBKO99maQW-SDp8XWx74tqWC00fwT4Q7pxq0yQhvZY7aZl0uaDNTX4xsuw5uCD5Y6pcGSqeYZavmDw=s4032" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhg6Ky0rGkyFS1k5DR7-cHeXKGok9aEpqXnF0zEN1z12vjtMk-T8BZ5xGhuqP5F6k2WHNghCgal5RSHC7QRMESVAE2KsxTyY2s9Onzzx6qBPDrtTBKO99maQW-SDp8XWx74tqWC00fwT4Q7pxq0yQhvZY7aZl0uaDNTX4xsuw5uCD5Y6pcGSqeYZavmDw=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></div><p>I used two different greys, a darker and a lighter one and followed this with a light application of black pastel powder to the tender bogies as I felt that they were too light and clean. I then used some cream coloured pastel powder to add a spilt sand effect to the sandboxes area just in front of the cab on both sides. Finally, I added a very light application of rust coloured pastel powder to the lower half of the smokebox door.</p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KD3KWLkGG5iOiAxC2SJAIMpGrn5Ow5JK/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Here is a link to a JMRI DecoderPro file</a> I made for the Z19 default CVs. Before I did any of the above I read all the CVs into DecoderPro and also did my best to work out what sounds are on what function numbers (see the Function Labels tab in DecoderPro). I could be wrong for a couple of them so would be happy to be corrected.</p><p>EDIT: <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q4JG8nujge8DWjMDAYzAKZ8qwDPD5SJI/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Here is a link to a just-released PDF document about the Casula Hobbies Z19 that includes the default function list.</a></p><p>One final note, I was disappointed to find that there is no short whistle for use when reversing, three short whistles. There is however a function button that will play four different long whistles, very strange!</p><p>Some whistle files can be programmed to allow a short or long whistle to be played depending on how long the whistle button is pressed but this isn't one.</p><p>I hope that the LokProgrammer sound file for the Z19 will be made available as that missing short whistle is very annoying.</p><p>If the file is made available then I will have to borrow a LokProgrammer from a friend and add a short whistle.</p><p>Overall, once again I can only say congratulations Joe Calipari.</p><p>EDIT:</p><p>I received a comment question about the coal load and if I have any intention of doing something about it, here is my reply:</p><p><i>"The short answer is yes. The longer one is that I hope to do something about a keep-alive but there isn't much room in the tender. The model coal load is quite flat and it is removable, well I hope it isn't glued in too strongly.</i></p><p><i>My idea is to remove the plastic load and investigate how much room can be found with a 'taller' load. The keep-alive will have to be a homemade one as the supercapacitors may need to be spread around inside the tender and coal load.</i></p><p><i>Then there is the final issue.... I have to find my supply of coal. I have obviously put it somewhere other than where it was usually kept."</i></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-90404774372906295942021-12-23T15:26:00.002+11:002021-12-23T15:26:43.222+11:00Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEglURQYsxwxLLTSmX1pKRaKUGb5E7YJbourWon9bKJ8w-0_nYLHX76N4-AV5z2hqndsclIAPCGEZtmRSlj1ZAYCXbUow2SiwNKyrcxRmHuVET-TDd0OMU2JqpniNNtWiez1h5VjxQBbAmTjS-MRDjLwIK40o-Jl9LfZ_AImmFJCX4HWJvyDLHwowaWy3A=s5873" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3305" data-original-width="5873" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEglURQYsxwxLLTSmX1pKRaKUGb5E7YJbourWon9bKJ8w-0_nYLHX76N4-AV5z2hqndsclIAPCGEZtmRSlj1ZAYCXbUow2SiwNKyrcxRmHuVET-TDd0OMU2JqpniNNtWiez1h5VjxQBbAmTjS-MRDjLwIK40o-Jl9LfZ_AImmFJCX4HWJvyDLHwowaWy3A=w400-h225" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>I hope everyone has a safe and enjoyable Christmas and New Year.</p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-91661471501472012662021-10-10T16:17:00.001+11:002021-10-18T17:41:04.812+11:00A Home for the BYLONG Layout Circuit Breakers<p>Several years ago the layout gained a mysterious short circuit even though I hadn't been doing any wiring or trackwork recently. After a lot of searching under the layout and checking the track for closed rail gaps, I called in the big gun, Marcus Amman.</p><p>Marcus spent an afternoon with me checking all the same things and we still came up with nothing. At this point, it was decided that I needed to replace the NCE EB3 circuit breaker board as the EB3 boards were known to be a bit flaky. So, three NCE EB1 circuit breakers were bought and temporarily installed in the wiring. Now what I mean by temporary is that they just hung down below the layout suspended by the wiring to them. This situation stayed that way until about a month ago when I decided it was time to fix the mess.</p><p>I won't go into a too long-winded explanation of what I did so I will present the photo below and it will become self-evident. The EB1s are mounted on the perspex panel with 3D printed stand-offs. The stand-offs were 3D printed because we were in COVID-19 lockdown and I didn't want to do Click and Collect at Jaycar where there is a whole range of different sizes. Longer stand-offs were also printed to mount the panel on the layout fascia. The lit red LEDs on each EB1 board indicate that all is well.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IM4eZcIZON0/YWJ0LE3qhvI/AAAAAAAADWA/XCn4ahcdEHkCNJCtVndjJWFpGqLfCn0lACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Layout%2BCircuit%2BBreaker%2Bpanel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1314" data-original-width="2048" height="256" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IM4eZcIZON0/YWJ0LE3qhvI/AAAAAAAADWA/XCn4ahcdEHkCNJCtVndjJWFpGqLfCn0lACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h256/Layout%2BCircuit%2BBreaker%2Bpanel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Now, I should mention that somewhere along this journey when the EB3 board was replaced by the EB1s the short circuit disappeared and hasn't shown up again.</p><p>I should also state that the mainline was divided into two districts and the Cassilis branch was the third district. The mainline was divided at Coxs Gap loop but for years the two mainline districts would shut down when there was a short in either, I obviously had a sneak path in the track wiring. I searched for this for a long time and eventually accepted that this was just the way it is. Of course, when doing something totally unrelated under Coxs Gap loop I found some wiring that went from one end of the mainline outside the loop to the other end, it was tucked up behind some layout framework. A quick snip and all was well with the BYLONG world.</p><p>In the photo above a toggle switch and a 5 Amp ammeter can be seen. This measures the total amperage drawn by the layout when operating. The toggle switch is to cut the ammeter out of the power to the track when not reading as it uses some voltage. It is turned on when needed to check the current draw.</p><p>I am very pleased with the installation and it has taken away my concerns about those EB1s hanging in the wiring, also they were not very professional looking.</p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-57912767269966259772021-10-03T10:38:00.002+11:002021-10-17T12:48:57.348+11:00A Track Cleaning Train<p> As we all do, the search for a good and easy way to clean track can cause us to try all sorts of things. Of course, one way is to use the Peco track rubber or other brand, another is to use what used to be known as an ink rubber (eraser), a slight abrasive was bonded in the rubber. I have noticed that these are very hard to get anymore which is a pity as they were better than the Peco rubber. I am not going to get into the argument about the abrasive rubbers scratching the rail head as my track is long past protecting from that potential issue.</p><p>One thing I have always done is to use a 38mm paintbrush and drag it along the track at about 45 degrees to remove dust which I believe is a major part of dirty track. Combine dust with some conductivity fluids and you make the grey stuff that builds up on the wheels. Anyway, that's my theory. The dust by itself can also cause erratic power pick up and running. I will use the brush if I haven't run the layout for a few weeks.</p><p>In regards to conductivity, I started decades ago by using CRC 2-26, an electrical conductivity spray, this certainly works well but must be applied sparingly and away from grades. I applied it to about 50cm of each rail on level track in several places around the layout as well as on the point blade and stock rail contact areas of points. I did find many years later that it can build up to a slightly sticky form at the point blade contact areas and start to restrict blade movement. This was rectified with an application of enamel paint thinner on a cotton pipe cleaner. This is how I enhanced conductivity until I started looking for other ways several years ago.</p><p>The next trials involved the use of graphite pencil sticks which seemed to work well but also had to be kept away from the layout grades. These can be found in art supply shops.</p><p>My latest efforts involve a geared motor rotating a cleaning pad against the rail tops. This motor is built into an NSWGR 48 Class HO model that runs as a dummy with another diesel locomotive, usually a Trainorama 44 Class. Behind the diesel locomotives are several wagons that have other track wiping and cleaning fittings.</p><p>Here are some photographs that show what I mean.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oTBO2OQOgVs/YVQF4lfI_XI/AAAAAAAADTs/2PKSP01SxX8x04zYmY2WLnn1LufAeCdlgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Track%2BCleaning%2BTrain.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oTBO2OQOgVs/YVQF4lfI_XI/AAAAAAAADTs/2PKSP01SxX8x04zYmY2WLnn1LufAeCdlgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/Track%2BCleaning%2BTrain.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GX3K_iW6gVc/YVQF8kUxBVI/AAAAAAAADTw/_XkQKm7QqP8iABAks9dg6jQnFhzS83r-gCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC00164.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3376" data-original-width="6000" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GX3K_iW6gVc/YVQF8kUxBVI/AAAAAAAADTw/_XkQKm7QqP8iABAks9dg6jQnFhzS83r-gCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/DSC00164.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JKlFWHig_bg/YVQJc8JUhHI/AAAAAAAADUA/IRKHue25o-YQL49Oq9GbHZgYL4OLc6qgwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210929_150522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JKlFWHig_bg/YVQJc8JUhHI/AAAAAAAADUA/IRKHue25o-YQL49Oq9GbHZgYL4OLc6qgwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210929_150522.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: x-small;"><div style="text-align: center;">A white metal Protype BCW with an abrasive rubber (from Walthers I think)</div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JXSBkY9L_X0/YVQJc_zUcQI/AAAAAAAADT8/3qiRJaaqh7EBOMoFTdN0itARcanhP5RNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210929_150531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JXSBkY9L_X0/YVQJc_zUcQI/AAAAAAAADT8/3qiRJaaqh7EBOMoFTdN0itARcanhP5RNgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210929_150531.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The middle wagon has a piece of 1mm cork mounted on the Dust Monkey brush</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W0xSKTYRIuE/YVQJc4Hi2_I/AAAAAAAADUE/1At6bCuxiXEBH0uAp6aLUGdY5Lby0I3jgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210929_150735.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W0xSKTYRIuE/YVQJc4Hi2_I/AAAAAAAADUE/1At6bCuxiXEBH0uAp6aLUGdY5Lby0I3jgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210929_150735.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Noch also makes the axle mounted Dust Monkey brushes</span></div><p>The cork disc and the cork on the Dust Monkey have a small amount of CRC 2-26 electrical conductivity fluid applied to them before operating. The CRC 2-26 can also be applied to the rails in a number of places around the layout to rejuvenate the cork. Any buildup of the grey dirt from the track can be cleaned from the cork carefully with some enamel thinner. Be careful not to saturate the cork with the thinner as it may cause the glue holding the cork on the plastic to soften. I use a cotton pipe cleaner to clean the cork.</p><p>The 48 Class has a piece of grey sponge mounted behind the leading cowcatcher to wipe the dust away before it can get on the locomotive's wheels and cause problems. I am still looking for a small brush arrangement to replace the foam.</p><p>The motor that spins the cork disc is a 1000 rpm geared 12volt DC motor that can be found here (at the time of this post of course):</p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=DC+3V%2F6V%2F12V+N20+Mini+Micro+Metal+Gear+Motor&_sacat=0" target="_blank">On ebay</a></p><p>Or</p><p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33022320164.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.552b7188jfN2cf&algo_pvid=2c9dd673-5448-403c-8549-1fa7e6a21def&algo_expid=2c9dd673-5448-403c-8549-1fa7e6a21def-21&btsid=0bb0624616023774048481275e6dc8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_" target="_blank">On Aliexpress</a></p><p>The body of the 48 Class is an old Trax body and the chassis of the 48 Class is made of several 3D prints. The non-powered 48 Class bogies are from the early Trax 48 Class and I have used two of them. They clip into the 3D printed chassis the same as they did on one end of the Trax 48 Class. It was lucky that I kept the Trax 48 Class chassis' when I made new mechanisms some time ago. <a href="http://bylong.blogspot.com/search?q=48" target="_blank">See the blog post here</a>.</p><p>The prints were done on a 3D filament printer except for the fuel tanks which were done on a resin printer. The fuel tanks might work on a filament printer with appropriate orientation and supports.</p><p>If anyone is interested and has an old Trax 48 Class body and a couple of the non-powered Trax 48 Class bogies then here are the STL files of the chassis parts and the fuel tank side (two required).</p><p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/rpvnqnw52hmo4g1/Track%20Cleaner%20Chassis%20v2.stl?dl=0" target="_blank">Chassis</a></p><p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwqq1zfeiwm0x5h/Motor%20Bottom%20Support%20v3.stl?dl=0" target="_blank">Chassis Motor Bottom Support</a></p><p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/m5a0kdansscnjpm/Track%20Cleaner%20Disk%20v1.stl?dl=0" target="_blank">Track Cleaner Disc</a></p><p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/objli8tk4v9dw64/48%20Class%20Fuel%20Tank%20Side%20v3.stl?dl=0" target="_blank">48 Class Fuel Tank Side</a></p><p>The chassis parts were printed flat on the bed of the filament 3D printer.</p><p>Of course the adventurous could always design and print the bogies and use the white metal bogie side frames if they are still available.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bp7XKTsrt8s/YVQQrkssS3I/AAAAAAAADU4/rXMHYu0KudsmD8_S27LyNtOi5MBYX9brgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1916/48%2BClass%2BTrack%2BCleaner%2BChassis%2Band%2BParts%2Bv8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1916" height="178" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bp7XKTsrt8s/YVQQrkssS3I/AAAAAAAADU4/rXMHYu0KudsmD8_S27LyNtOi5MBYX9brgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h178/48%2BClass%2BTrack%2BCleaner%2BChassis%2Band%2BParts%2Bv8.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The motor sits relatively loosely in the centre square hole and the square part below the chassis is glued into the chassis to retain the motor. The fuel tanks screw onto the chassis and retain the body. The disc slides onto the motor shaft which has a flat keyway. The disc can move up and down under its own weight but a small piece of foam is used to apply slight downward pressure. Too much pressure can stop the motor from rotating. The longer two box shapes can be used for some weight and/or a place to put the DCC decoder. Although my 48 Class isn't fitted with a Keep Alive as yet it would be a good addition.<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XN9Y25e8SQE/YVQSM2fKKOI/AAAAAAAADVE/kHOZamCgcwQujfCxV7oai0kbX66zZAZUACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210918_155059.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XN9Y25e8SQE/YVQSM2fKKOI/AAAAAAAADVE/kHOZamCgcwQujfCxV7oai0kbX66zZAZUACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210918_155059.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Various trial materials were used on the disc - 2 types of material</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">, cork, <br />2000 grit Wet and Dry and the last one has glue on it from a covering I removed</span>.</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9SsvQHf5v8/YVQSMgUMYXI/AAAAAAAADVA/4JUDnUJexogUddOqv9LaNr5u4QU5IO6BgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210918_164341.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9SsvQHf5v8/YVQSMgUMYXI/AAAAAAAADVA/4JUDnUJexogUddOqv9LaNr5u4QU5IO6BgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210918_164341.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Under chassis view showing a piece of foam that exerts<br />a slight downward pressure on the disc.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeSRqlA6g8M/YVQSM_bTDNI/AAAAAAAADVI/W3hyE9dRplQA_ih0J25uT7hJ01qQZjKRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210918_164651.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeSRqlA6g8M/YVQSM_bTDNI/AAAAAAAADVI/W3hyE9dRplQA_ih0J25uT7hJ01qQZjKRgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210918_164651.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">View of the chassis, body and two fuel tanks that retain the body.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jwiSJiteqb8/YVQSNgu9PWI/AAAAAAAADVM/XwomPfSnWMASzqmPNouMw22JwJ6Zx9OnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210918_164717.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jwiSJiteqb8/YVQSNgu9PWI/AAAAAAAADVM/XwomPfSnWMASzqmPNouMw22JwJ6Zx9OnQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210918_164717.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">View showing motor sitting in the square box mounting.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-hwhco37Bw/YVQSOVP899I/AAAAAAAADVQ/Hxo_iIt-3xcMGMKusjOR-37UHqQUOjdCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210918_164952.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-hwhco37Bw/YVQSOVP899I/AAAAAAAADVQ/Hxo_iIt-3xcMGMKusjOR-37UHqQUOjdCgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210918_164952.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">1000rpm 12 volt motor</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>The decoder has Back EMF which can assist in keeping it spinning. The decoder is not in a DCC consist with the 44 Class as it needs to run at full speed. Any decoder with Back EMF would be suitable. The 44 Class is run slowly to give more cleaning revolutions of the disc on the rails.<br /><div><br /></div><div>Finally, this method of making a track cleaner could be applied to any other dummy model diesel by designing and printing an equivalent style chassis, etc.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here is <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000008795281.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.15.24ad235cA26J4i&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=2991df23-7761-4c68-9a85-2420ed62f677&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.33416.213724.0,pvid:2991df23-7761-4c68-9a85-2420ed62f677,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2384_668%23888%233325%2317_23416%230%23213724%230_23416%234721%2321967%23227_23416%234722%2321972%239_668%232846%238113%231998_668%235811%2327173%2315_668%232717%237561%23400_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%233422%2315392%23613_4452%230%23214000%230_4452%233474%2316498%23997_4452%234862%2324463%2377_4452%233098%239624%231000_4452%235108%2323442%23856_4452%233564%2316062%23433" target="_blank">another motor and gearbox style</a> that could be used. The link was good at the time of this post.<br /><p>If your diesels are having intermittent power pick up issues then <a href="http://bylong.blogspot.com/2017/02/i-have-theory.html" target="_blank">have a look at this earlier post</a> where I put forward a theory about it and solve it with some easily fitted power pickups.</p></div></div>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-76411057574126184132021-09-17T11:53:00.000+10:002021-09-17T11:53:00.272+10:00Wollar Triple Bracket Home Signal Control<p>Two posts ago I installed a triple bracket signal to act as the Home for Wollar station and yard. As I had some access difficulties if I wanted to install two normal bracket signals, I opted for the triple bracket.</p><p>The post was mainly about the small sleeper built retaining wall that I needed to make and install to retain the existing scenery where the triple bracket had to go.</p><p>This time I want to show what I did about controlling the triple bracket and also how I solved the visibility issue. The triple bracket was placed on the curve leading into Wollar and as such the arms were not easily visible to determine which track was set up for the train entering the yard.</p><p>As mentioned in the earlier post I cut the triple bellcrank style mechanism away and replaced it with one of my triple linear servo mechanisms by glueing it to the underside of the existing triple bracket base.</p><p>I then set up three Tam Valley Depot Singlet II servo control boards where I could access them from the front of the layout.</p><p>I extended a LED from each Singlet II to the front of the layout fascia and mounted the LEDs in a 3D printed box that showed which track each LED related to. The LEDs are bi-colour so show red or green depending on the signal arm position.</p><p>Here is the box with LEDs in place, working and showing green for the Main line.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOpokPxp3L8/YUPxU-XKNAI/AAAAAAAADSQ/nrwnWjUd2ngTHnGiCFAc1YFe0MT8y656QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210916_160958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOpokPxp3L8/YUPxU-XKNAI/AAAAAAAADSQ/nrwnWjUd2ngTHnGiCFAc1YFe0MT8y656QCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/20210916_160958.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Note the Accessory numbers A54, A55 and A56 as well as the L, M and BP written on the Singlet IIs with a white fine point paint pen. The L stands for Loop, the M stands for Main and the BP stands for the Back Platform track. Strangely, the Back Platform track is actually at the front of the layout. It is the track that the Cassilis branch trains arrive and depart from.</p><p>At the moment the triple signals can be operated by the buttons on the Singlet II control board or by accessory commands. The intent is to use an NCE Mini-Panel to change the appropriate signal arms based on the point levers (control panel switches). There is an Accept lever (switch) that can put all triple bracket arms to Stop.</p><p>So, the points will be set first, then the Accept lever will be set to allow entry and the appropriate signal arm will change to clear. The responding LED will show Green on the indicator box on the layout fascia.</p><p>Incidentally, the gap between the inner layout frame with the Singlet IIs and the outer piece of layout frame where the indicator box is mounted can now be filled with a piece of baseboard and the scenery will be extended down from the road to the front of the layout.</p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-686052375061534112021-09-05T17:58:00.000+10:002021-09-05T17:58:12.499+10:00Small Signal Box Build<p> I have a small NSWGR signal box meant for platforms on my Signals Branch Shapeways shop. The signal box is described as a 'Cheap Platform Signal Box'and one look at it and you can see why the NSWGR accountants must have loved it.</p><p>Links are here for those who may be interested.</p><p><a href="https://www.shapeways.com/product/FHPL86AAC/ho-nswr-cheap-platform-level-signal-box?optionId=61533406&li=shops" target="_blank">Cheap Platform Signal Box available in Versatile Plastic or Fine Detail Plastic</a>.</p><p><a href="https://www.shapeways.com/product/MW8GXK4UW/ho-nswr-cheap-platform-signal-box-detail-parts?optionId=61533408&li=shops" target="_blank">Detail parts for the Cheap Signal Box, door, windows, telegraph wire insulators, water tank and downpipe</a>.</p><p>I have several of these signal boxes and I chose a Shapeways Versatile Plastic version to use as the basis for a junction signal box for the coal mine branch near Wollar. Now, as this is a platform version I needed to build a supporting structure for it.</p><p>Once again, I turned to my computer and ran Sketchup to design a corrugated iron lower supporting section. As part of the build, I also designed a flat base for the signal box to sit on. Extra parts were designed as well, these being a platform and steps, bellcrank and signal wire wheels for the area between the signal box and the track. I already had a small water tank designed so this came into the build but I needed a different downpipe from the gutter to the water tank and a water tank tap as well.</p><p>The corrugated iron support structure and the base were printed in PLA on my filament printer and the other small parts listed above were printed on my resin DLP printer.</p><p>Here are a few photos of the finished signal box. Overall I am quite happy with it and it is now put in place at the junction with appropriate scenery materials blending it into the scene.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ujuP5QQmUMY/YTR1xbzjKEI/AAAAAAAADRk/rW-p7Wm3oDsDCX-WYdBag5MVFcdx01lUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC00154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3376" data-original-width="6000" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ujuP5QQmUMY/YTR1xbzjKEI/AAAAAAAADRk/rW-p7Wm3oDsDCX-WYdBag5MVFcdx01lUwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/DSC00154.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DgWMRsi9zk/YTR1xLhT03I/AAAAAAAADRo/WNgVkIdmM78KyKWEmvfiXKzG643fRvXDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC00155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3376" data-original-width="6000" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DgWMRsi9zk/YTR1xLhT03I/AAAAAAAADRo/WNgVkIdmM78KyKWEmvfiXKzG643fRvXDwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/DSC00155.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1_TTXHo_I2s/YTR1xrj2RNI/AAAAAAAADRs/KoWUQKzfzrM0kkBUF-m6GurZLHy-chxUACLcBGAsYHQ/s6000/DSC00157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3376" data-original-width="6000" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1_TTXHo_I2s/YTR1xrj2RNI/AAAAAAAADRs/KoWUQKzfzrM0kkBUF-m6GurZLHy-chxUACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/DSC00157.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-51675612744330417132021-04-27T17:43:00.002+10:002021-05-02T10:22:13.560+10:00Small Retaining Wall Build<p> Back again!</p><p>When I first started drawing 3D signals that were available through my <a href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch">Shapeways Signals Branch shop</a> the range was initially in the sintered nylon powder previously called White Strong and Flexible and now called Versatile Plastic by Shapeways. The signal detail parts were in Fine Detail Plastic. At the time I bought enough signals to signal my BYLONG layout. It was later that I redrew the signals for the Fine Detail Plastic and then Lost Wax Brass. So, I have been building my signals but upgrading them with fine ladders and wire handrails, etc. They don't look too bad at all, at least from a normal viewing distance.</p><p>I have been working on a triple bracket lower quadrant signal for my Wollar station yard on and off for some time in between making brass NSWGR signals for other modellers and I recently decided I had better finish it.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dRaI6WBC7zw/YIe_x0EJzXI/AAAAAAAADMM/Yv44KN8UaQkHOO1Lw91IkVXhoLBxpu4AACLcBGAsYHQ/s2642/20210330_095013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dRaI6WBC7zw/YIe_x0EJzXI/AAAAAAAADMM/Yv44KN8UaQkHOO1Lw91IkVXhoLBxpu4AACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h180/20210330_095013.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8K6gtWnBkDM/YIe_x4zKfjI/AAAAAAAADMQ/HKMVxkwgc-QiVW5R_6drgXFszSYClcDSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2603/20210410_121607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2603" data-original-width="1208" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8K6gtWnBkDM/YIe_x4zKfjI/AAAAAAAADMQ/HKMVxkwgc-QiVW5R_6drgXFszSYClcDSgCLcBGAsYHQ/w186-h400/20210410_121607.jpg" width="186" /></a></div><br /><p>Here are some recent signals made from my range of locally produced lost wax brass signals.</p><p>Contact me by email at rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au if you wish to know more information about my range of signals or about ordering from my range, either signal kits or made up signals.</p><p>I cut off the existing crank-style mechanism and replaced it with a triple linear servo base as the under baseboard location of the signal was difficult to access. The linear servos were being driven by Tam Valley Singlet II servo boards that also have a DCC accessory decoder. The Singlet II boards were going to be mounted just under the front of the layout for easy access with one of the LEDs on each board being extended to the fascia. The reason for the visible LEDs was to show the position of the three arms as the actual signal could only be seen from the side. In doing this I also had to source some longer servo cables which I did through the Model Railroad Craftsman at Blacktown NSW.</p><p>Now, the location for the signal required the removal of some scenery from a low embankment in a box shape so I decided to draw up and 3D print a three-sided retaining wall made of sleepers and rail.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_uuVY9C69N0/YIe8cDYAl4I/AAAAAAAADLw/LU2y59vB6mcrxd7XvCovHyoq522qK-FtQCPcBGAYYCw/s2642/20210425_104342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_uuVY9C69N0/YIe8cDYAl4I/AAAAAAAADLw/LU2y59vB6mcrxd7XvCovHyoq522qK-FtQCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h180/20210425_104342.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>I had previously drawn a long retaining wall made of sleepers and rail for my layout so I modified that to suit.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D2U8NKxLP_g/YIe8cOXMK2I/AAAAAAAADME/gTzU5IxJhLgSNtHPOqH6PFGmb3Sko2OMACPcBGAYYCw/s2642/20210425_105405.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D2U8NKxLP_g/YIe8cOXMK2I/AAAAAAAADME/gTzU5IxJhLgSNtHPOqH6PFGmb3Sko2OMACPcBGAYYCw/w400-h180/20210425_105405.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Here is the retaining wall temporarily in place after trimming the scenery to size.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NlDjfYnc5kY/YIe8cG1x9QI/AAAAAAAADMA/sHnO1jOaXeYv0u9M_xuMOgUlWQa9-pZuQCPcBGAYYCw/s2642/20210425_105147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NlDjfYnc5kY/YIe8cG1x9QI/AAAAAAAADMA/sHnO1jOaXeYv0u9M_xuMOgUlWQa9-pZuQCPcBGAYYCw/w400-h180/20210425_105147.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>And here is the final placement of the retaining wall after painting the vertical rails with an old rust colour and using black powder on the grey plastic for the wood sleepers.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RhimV3YDzS4/YIjQe13KVDI/AAAAAAAADMc/cC2iCeUh5hsLNeA6M2-7XoYuCSL9ExfYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2642/20210425_135833.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RhimV3YDzS4/YIjQe13KVDI/AAAAAAAADMc/cC2iCeUh5hsLNeA6M2-7XoYuCSL9ExfYgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h180/20210425_135833.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>A nice afternoon's work I think.</p><p>The signal has had the throw of the signal arms adjusted and set by the Tam Valley Singlet II boards and it has been screwed in place. Unfortunately though as can be seen from the last photo above, I have to remove it and glue the large painted cast-iron brackets under the bracket platform, too excited to get it in place for sure.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-50374970737470352702021-02-20T10:41:00.003+11:002021-02-20T10:41:42.160+11:00A Recent Visitor to BYLONG<p> A few weeks ago my BYLONG layout had an interesting visitor, the engineering sample of the Casula Hobbies Z19.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6En9bgR3YnM/YDBJhU4FMFI/AAAAAAAADJY/bDPWNtJ9zDkFlsqY6SvEz9uOfafaTjjaACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Casula%2BHobbies%2BZ19%2BEngineering%2BSample%2B2020-01-15%2B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6En9bgR3YnM/YDBJhU4FMFI/AAAAAAAADJY/bDPWNtJ9zDkFlsqY6SvEz9uOfafaTjjaACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/Casula%2BHobbies%2BZ19%2BEngineering%2BSample%2B2020-01-15%2B.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The model ran very smoothly and is geared down to a very respectable low top speed typical of the prototype. I didn't measure the speed but it appears to be no more than about a scale 40 mph. Slow speed running at DCC speed step one was impressive as well. The detail level is fantastic!</p><p>I have the Baldwin tender 1957 with cowcatcher and sound on order for my Cassilis branch line. The branch line is not fenced so the cowcatcher is needed. My Wombat C30T is the current branch locomotive but it doesn't have a cowcatcher, something I may have to remedy in the future.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ya9WPwcOXag/YDBLQ0S7KEI/AAAAAAAADJk/hgSaL4KLKBwxa3Ib4yg0LKnjq78kQqNKACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Cassilis%2BGoods%2Bwaiting%2Bthe%2Bsignal%2Bat%2BWollar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1151" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ya9WPwcOXag/YDBLQ0S7KEI/AAAAAAAADJk/hgSaL4KLKBwxa3Ib4yg0LKnjq78kQqNKACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h225/Cassilis%2BGoods%2Bwaiting%2Bthe%2Bsignal%2Bat%2BWollar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-74797401224343829302020-12-18T17:13:00.001+11:002020-12-18T17:13:58.952+11:00Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year<p> OK, one post all year and this one is the second, slack! The current worldwide situation seems to have changed my focus to things other than model railways. At the start of the COVID-19 problem, I thought that this would be a good opportunity to get back to my layout but I have done basically nothing, not sure why. Although, I have made a number of signals for modellers and that certainly took me away from some hobby projects that I was interested in doing. I did make a start on a new project recently and I had another one on the go towards the end of last year, but they can wait until the new year for a post.</p><p>Anyway, I hope that everyone has enjoyable and safe Christmas and New Year celebrations.</p><p>Here is an older layout photo but one that I really like. Bylong station yard has a few more signals these days.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eYmPTgiOGl4/X9xIBzJyQuI/AAAAAAAADHs/TZkkK81MUMkCH5eXCY71FM-miymrtefdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Merry%2BChristmas%2B2020%2B-%2B4823%2Bin%2Bthe%2Bloop%2Bat%2BBylong.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1287" data-original-width="2048" height="251" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eYmPTgiOGl4/X9xIBzJyQuI/AAAAAAAADHs/TZkkK81MUMkCH5eXCY71FM-miymrtefdwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h251/Merry%2BChristmas%2B2020%2B-%2B4823%2Bin%2Bthe%2Bloop%2Bat%2BBylong.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-59728326194730122020-06-28T20:34:00.001+10:002020-06-29T09:52:23.680+10:00At last, Another Post!To say that 2020 has been an interesting year would be an understatement!<br />
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Bush fires and COVID-19 have certainly kept us occupied and focussed.<br />
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Unfortunately, I can't blame either or both for my lack of blog posts. I haven't managed to get any work done on the layout at all although I had great expectations of achieving a lot.<br />
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The reason comes down to that other 'small' interest of mine, my Signals Branch hobby business.<br />
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I really like designing 3D models and I keep having ideas about what would be fun to do.<br />
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Anyway, for an update of what I have been doing please hop over to my <a href="http://signalsbranch.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Signals Branch blog</a> to find out.<br />
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Here is a teaser or two.<br />
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There are a lot more photos of other new signals and information on my <a href="http://signalsbranch.blogspot.com/2020/06/additions-to-range-of-locally-produced.html" target="_blank">Signals Branch blog</a>.Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-78679180814018341252019-12-18T16:51:00.003+11:002019-12-18T16:52:08.470+11:00Wishing All a Merry Christmas and a Happy New YearThe Cassilis Goods is waiting for the signal so it can make the last run out along the branch before Christmas.<br />
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Best wishes from Ray and Christine<br />
<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-8055190516758772532019-11-11T14:42:00.003+11:002019-11-11T14:46:51.336+11:00A Fun Week of Modelling<b>Back Story</b><br />
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About a year ago I finally bought a Wombat Models Drumhead Smokebox C30T with the 6 wheel tender when there were very few left. It was a bit of an on the spot decision.<br />
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My problem was that I wanted/needed a bogie tender version for my Cassilis Branch and Wombat hadn't announced an intention to do the bogie version at the time.<br />
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So my idea was to pinch the tender from one of my Eureka Models D50s and replace it with an etched turret tender as I had both a Lloyds kit and an Andian kit.<br />
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After launching my new Australian made brass NSWGR Lower Quadrant signals recently I decided that the time had come to attack the C30T. Email me for information regarding ordering (rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au).<br />
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The first step was to open up the 6 wheel tender to remove the 8 pin tender/loco connector that I would use on the sound decoder in the D50 tender. I had saved some wiring information for the 6 wheel tender/loco connector that Gerry Hopkins had posted some time ago on a Facebook group for reference.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dLg9Kpcz3kY/XceWVr9SBAI/AAAAAAAAC54/iJUC8o8a_SoM6HQ8xpgOFZpC9XUzxLLPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Wombat%2BC30T%2BTender%2BWiring%2BDiagram%2B-%2BGerry%2BHopkins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="801" height="297" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dLg9Kpcz3kY/XceWVr9SBAI/AAAAAAAAC54/iJUC8o8a_SoM6HQ8xpgOFZpC9XUzxLLPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Wombat%2BC30T%2BTender%2BWiring%2BDiagram%2B-%2BGerry%2BHopkins.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Wombat Models C30T 6 Wheel tender Wiring by Gerry Hopkins</span></td></tr>
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The sound decoder was a 21 pin Soundtraxx Tsunami 2 Steam 2 which was nice and small. Then the issue was identifying the correct wiring to connect the 21 pins to the 8 pin tender/loco connector. I used a 21 pin diagram I found in the ESU Loksound 4 Manual and cross referenced this with both Gerry's wiring for the C30T 6 wheel tender/ loco connector and the Tsunami 2 decoder. I made up a table including the correct wire colours to ensure that I didn't get my 'wires crossed'. I used an ESU 51967 21MTC Adapter Board to plug the decoder into and solder the various wires to the 8 pin tender/loco connector.<br />
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I removed the QSI Titan, speaker, etc. from the Eureka Models D50 tender for later inclusion in the etched Turret tender.<br />
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I also wired in a TCS KA2 Keep Alive and a Model Railroad Craftsman Micro Boost 'sugar cube' speaker with 13 x 17 x 7 mm enclosure that I have had for a few years. All components were held in place with some 'BluTak' (actually orange).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VslNJNZv1RA/XceT3Pm7h4I/AAAAAAAAC4A/3cgdwi51Ug0ADuTEVMdNduxgi7duRITOQCEwYBhgL/s1600/20191031_122050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VslNJNZv1RA/XceT3Pm7h4I/AAAAAAAAC4A/3cgdwi51Ug0ADuTEVMdNduxgi7duRITOQCEwYBhgL/s400/20191031_122050.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A rectangular hole was cut into the front wall of the D50 tender below the small floor section for the wires to exit the tender. The connections between the C30T and the tender were pushed into a space below the C30T cab at the rear of the chassis.<br />
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One thing I do with loco/tender connections either wired through or with plug/socket connections is to use a <a href="https://www.jaycar.com.au/31-piece-mini-tap-die-set/p/TD2443" target="_blank">2 mm button die</a> (available from JayCar 11-2019) and put some threads on the tender pin and then use a nut to retain the loco connection bar to stop it from coming off the pin when handling the model. The pin was unscrewed from the tender, held in a pin vice that was then held in a bench vice and the 2 mm die was then used to cut about 2 good threads onto the lower end of the pin.<br />
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Keeping the loco and tender together retains the connectors in the rear of the chassis so that they don't get caught between the loco and tender.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zo92rZ2hDmE/XceT3T7jhFI/AAAAAAAAC5M/Cs8TI2bLovUW_Aw4BwWd-0jwr2fa2jnwwCEwYBhgL/s1600/20191031_122118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zo92rZ2hDmE/XceT3T7jhFI/AAAAAAAAC5M/Cs8TI2bLovUW_Aw4BwWd-0jwr2fa2jnwwCEwYBhgL/s400/20191031_122118.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The nut and the plug/socket can be seen in this photo</span></td></tr>
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Now, the C30T bogie tenders came from D50's originally but the rear wall of the coal bunker area was moved about 18 inches forward to make room for the two air tanks and a larger tool box. Incidentally, the brass C30T does not have this moved rear bunker wall, it is still modelled in the D50 position.<br />
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The rear wall is actually on a separate coal load casting in the Eureka Models D50 tender. I carefully removed this casting so that I could cut the wall off it. Be aware though that this casting seems to be of the slippery plastic not polystyrene so is a bit difficult to cut away. As can be seen from the photo below I cut vertically down through the coal load flush with the inner side of the wall using a Xacto fine modellers saw.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0B1v4P6ijw/XceTyR_YMNI/AAAAAAAAC44/SlLNumTBSLUDZMtQj-zNbjgUJC7HDbb4gCEwYBhgL/s1600/20191024_160516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y0B1v4P6ijw/XceTyR_YMNI/AAAAAAAAC44/SlLNumTBSLUDZMtQj-zNbjgUJC7HDbb4gCEwYBhgL/s400/20191024_160516.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Coal load with rear wall and small tool box removed</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear coal area wall cut off</td></tr>
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I then used some 1/4 inch by 20 thou. Evergreen polystyrene strip for the sloping coal bunker floor and and glued the wall and coal load in place as per the photo below. This piece of floor on the prototype is sloping as the original coal bunker floor was not changed.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the coal load cut away to allow the wall to be placed</td></tr>
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By this stage I was a couple of days into the re-build and it was time to do something about the two air tanks and the tool box. I took about 3-4 hours to draw up the three parts and then it took two runs of 3D prints to get them to fit mainly due to the large air tank sloping floor under it. Now I was making headway!<br />
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At this stage I decided that I wasn't too interested in bending up the piping that goes over the side of the tender from the air tanks but I knew that not all (but most) had the piping like that. I had a Tim Arnot photo of 3036 in Broadmeadow loco depot in 1966 which showed the pipes going through the tender side above the water tank part. Another undated photo by A R Astle on a mixed near Sandy Hollow indicated that 3036 would be suitable for my Bylong line.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaIQHMIoeRs/Xcecpuc6VrI/AAAAAAAAC6M/6YxVQf1cJOo4JfWz6jEZvuzxBDAsylwRACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3036%2Bat%2BBroadmeadow%2B1966-09-12%2B-%2BTim%2BArnot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="837" data-original-width="1278" height="261" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaIQHMIoeRs/Xcecpuc6VrI/AAAAAAAAC6M/6YxVQf1cJOo4JfWz6jEZvuzxBDAsylwRACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/3036%2Bat%2BBroadmeadow%2B1966-09-12%2B-%2BTim%2BArnot.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3036 at Broadmeadow 1966-09-12 - Photo by Tim Arnot</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--SIi1IjEhNY/XcecpsmV9eI/AAAAAAAAC6Q/HmlzGuBcKxc4MPj9F-kyilSdFySujyXjACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/3036%2Bon%2Ba%2Bmixed%2Bnear%2BSandy%2BHollow%2BPhoto%2Bby%2BA%2BR%2BAstle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="463" data-original-width="800" height="231" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--SIi1IjEhNY/XcecpsmV9eI/AAAAAAAAC6Q/HmlzGuBcKxc4MPj9F-kyilSdFySujyXjACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/3036%2Bon%2Ba%2Bmixed%2Bnear%2BSandy%2BHollow%2BPhoto%2Bby%2BA%2BR%2BAstle.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3036 on a mixed near Sandy Hollow - Undated Photo by A R Astle</td></tr>
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I printed a C30T funnel and steam dome (<a href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch?section=Other+Items&s=0" target="_blank">available in Fine Detail Plastic or Raw Brass from my Signals Branch Shapeways shop</a>) and replaced the supplied funnel and dome.<br />
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As the supplied whistle was a poor representation I used a Protype whistle I had from way back in the 1980's when I did a Z13 etched brass kit. I also had a generator from an Austrains C30 that replaced the supplied one.<br />
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Lastly I added a pair of locomotive jacks from the Stephen Johnson detail parts range to the front of the footplate next to the smokebox.<br />
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I mounted a cut down Kadee No. 16 coupler on the front of the loco using a piece of Kadee No. 5 box lid as a spacer and screwing into the mounting of the hook buffer section.<br />
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The coupler fouled the front bogie so I cut off the front bogie protrusion (same as the rear section - see photo) and put a fine screw to hold the top and bottom of the bogie together.<br />
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I also added some sheet lead to the underside of the bogie, front and back of the pivot as added insurance.<br />
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Next came numbering. It will be noted that I managed to remove the last two cab side numbers and I did this with Easy Lift Off and a wooden toothpick by carefully rubbing just on the existing 'painted' numbers. I added brass numbers to the cab, yellow numbers to the rear of the tender and small white numbers to the buffer beam. Note, I didn't attempt to change the front buffer beam from timber to the correct steel version, maybe some other time.<br />
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I hit the C30T with some flat grey/black paint followed by matt clear to finish. I will weather it at some time but not as bad as in the 1966 photo.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The print layer lines aren't really visible from the usual viewing distance</td></tr>
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Here is a video of the C30T hauling a test load both down grade and upgrade on my layout. If you listen to the sound it makes you can see that the chuff drops away when going down hill but chuffs loudly when climbing near the end of the video.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/8cYiY-g4aes/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8cYiY-g4aes?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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The load behind the C30T is actually 50 ton over the maximum allowed for a C30T on a 1 in 40 grade which is what the ruling grades are on my layout. So the Wombat Models C30T pulls more than the prototype.<br />
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The load in the video was a train from my Cassilis branch line which is flat so load wise, all good. Also, the CV and PV in the load are old whitemetal Protype wagons on first run Austrains S truck underframes.<br />
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<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-38009661116735893192019-10-11T17:10:00.000+11:002019-10-11T18:48:36.368+11:00Post AMRA Exhibition Brass Signal UpdateWell, I sold all 24 brass NSWGR HO lower quadrant signals over the three days of the weekend exhibition and would like to thank all those who showed their interest.<br />
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I had eight operational built and painted signals and sixteen signal kits.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uwt_8SrbLd8/XZ_0TflrOfI/AAAAAAAAC2M/p7UIV45Rq5IJioR4howxTd9QLfSvGYn6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191003_192354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uwt_8SrbLd8/XZ_0TflrOfI/AAAAAAAAC2M/p7UIV45Rq5IJioR4howxTd9QLfSvGYn6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20191003_192354.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brass operational and painted Right Hand Bracket Signal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H__pezM_0d0/XZ_0TauNCsI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/dtkNiFewjzwNswUvXlq1XhXa6Wc_bCfuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191003_204516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H__pezM_0d0/XZ_0TauNCsI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/dtkNiFewjzwNswUvXlq1XhXa6Wc_bCfuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20191003_204516.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Operational built and painted brass signals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HD9w4u39q0w/XZ_0TkKnApI/AAAAAAAAC2U/90vqR0ChRUIZHpDbb6OnnL-6C1YBTWHVACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191004_133831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HD9w4u39q0w/XZ_0TkKnApI/AAAAAAAAC2U/90vqR0ChRUIZHpDbb6OnnL-6C1YBTWHVACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20191004_133831.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sixteen signal kits ready to go - Note the brass signal post, signal parts,<br />
mechanism with hardware and the cast brass ladder</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u4rEKJpQPE0/XZ_0VOFYwgI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/9WYUAa3PtD88gxIiU2oOI03Hu6Be0cNQACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191005_085938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u4rEKJpQPE0/XZ_0VOFYwgI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/9WYUAa3PtD88gxIiU2oOI03Hu6Be0cNQACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/20191005_085938.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My little stand on the Eureka Models stand - Thanks Ron</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I did note that the use of a timber stand meant that I was asked a number of times if the signals worked as the mechanisms could not be seen, a learning thing. Next time I will have a perspex stand.</div>
<br />
I can accept orders by email for large or small numbers of signals and will be able to supply the signals with a choice of signal arm lengths. The signals I have in this locally produced line are 27 foot post single arm, 23 foot post single arm, left hand bracket and right hand bracket. So if a bracket signal is required with a 39 inch main line arm and a 36 inch arm or alternatively a 30 inch arm for a loop then this can be ordered and accommodated.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Email me at: <a href="mailto:rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au">rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au</a> for more information or to order.</span><br />
<br />
I also had a number of requests asking if I was going to produce N Scale signals, 7mm Scale signals and Upper Quadrant signals.<br />
<br />
The N Scale signals will definitely be looked at and do look possible.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately however, the 7mm Scale signals would be too tall for the casting equipment.<br />
<br />
Upper Quadrant signal kits are available in the Gordon Box brand at Casula Hobbies or from the advertisement in the latest Australian Journal of Railway Modelling magazine (Issue Number 12 page 47).<br />
<br />
The next few HO brass signals will be a timber post Distant signal, a 23 foot steel tube post single arm signal and left and right bracket steel tube signals.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tGdIeIi0VYE/XZ_5qZA8HiI/AAAAAAAAC2w/zlkx9YSFCZQv431fLp6wnHgz8f76NdurQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Signals%2BBranch%2BLQ%2BSteel%2BPost%2B23%2Bft%2BSignal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tGdIeIi0VYE/XZ_5qZA8HiI/AAAAAAAAC2w/zlkx9YSFCZQv431fLp6wnHgz8f76NdurQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Signals%2BBranch%2BLQ%2BSteel%2BPost%2B23%2Bft%2BSignal.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
23 Ft Steel Post Signal - 3D Render</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpcqGGXqq-0/XaAUmZL2_KI/AAAAAAAAC3I/eEDg-GYiwvos7yI17op-7_Bi0KKFjHQWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Brass%2B23%2BFoot%2BLeft%2BHand%2BBracket%2BTube%2BSteel%2BSignal%2BPost%2B-%2BFront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="697" data-original-width="405" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jpcqGGXqq-0/XaAUmZL2_KI/AAAAAAAAC3I/eEDg-GYiwvos7yI17op-7_Bi0KKFjHQWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Brass%2B23%2BFoot%2BLeft%2BHand%2BBracket%2BTube%2BSteel%2BSignal%2BPost%2B-%2BFront.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steel Post LH Bracket Front - 3D Render</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dGnP-exo5dg/XaAUmbl-0-I/AAAAAAAAC3M/37LBfKSXJU8wUQ0CjaJsLN-yHkbEretUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Brass%2B23%2BFoot%2BLeft%2BHand%2BBracket%2BTube%2BSteel%2BSignal%2BPost%2B-%2BRear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="452" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dGnP-exo5dg/XaAUmbl-0-I/AAAAAAAAC3M/37LBfKSXJU8wUQ0CjaJsLN-yHkbEretUwCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Brass%2B23%2BFoot%2BLeft%2BHand%2BBracket%2BTube%2BSteel%2BSignal%2BPost%2B-%2BRear.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
Steel Post LH Bracket Rear - 3D Render</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I will endeavor to introduce more signals as the brass signal order uptake increases.<br />
<br />
The cost of doing each signal locally is not small so the more unusual signals such as the under-slung type, Werris Creek platform starting bracket signal and some others will likely have to be ordered from my Signals Branch shop.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-9366770976678170112019-10-04T10:46:00.002+10:002019-10-04T10:52:29.184+10:00Australian Made NSWGR Lower Quadrant Brass SignalsI have started a locally made line of NSWGR lost wax cast signals that will be released at the AMRA Homebush Exhibition this weekend.<br />
<br />
Here is the information from my latest handout:<br />
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<span lang="EN" style="line-height: 23px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Announcing Australian made lost wax cast brass NSWGR lower quadrant signals with the following features:<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Locally produced and much cheaper than my brass signals from Shapeways<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Available as a kit or built to order if required<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Everything you need including brass post and details<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Castings have been removed from sprues and cleaned up<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">All holes pre-drilled<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">3D printed mechanism with screws mounted<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Brass wire for safety cage and operating rods<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span lang="EN" style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Single Post - Kit $60 - Built and painted $100<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-family: "symbol";">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN">Bracket Post – Kit $100 – Built and painted $170</span><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Assembly instructions can be found on the Signals Branch Blog at:<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: #67757b;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><a href="http://signalsbranch.blogspot.com.au/">http://signalsbranch.blogspot.com.au/</a><o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 23px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Contact Ray Pilgrim at <a href="mailto:rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au">rpilgrim@bigpond.net.au</a> for ordering or further information.<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MmCOMVdjNH4/XZaVbOg7WxI/AAAAAAAAC1Q/SpilcVVF6koWOys0W35KYYdiKv073QGDACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Brass%2B23%2Bft%2BSignal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MmCOMVdjNH4/XZaVbOg7WxI/AAAAAAAAC1Q/SpilcVVF6koWOys0W35KYYdiKv073QGDACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Brass%2B23%2Bft%2BSignal.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b><span style="text-transform: uppercase;">SIGNALS BRANCH</span></b> HO brass Steel and Timber Post Signals with brass ladder</span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Other Signals Branch signals and models are on my online shop at Shapeways:<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
<i style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch">https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch</a></i>Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-9452617597690466112019-07-09T12:57:00.002+10:002019-08-01T09:06:30.959+10:00PC 15 inch Panel Right Hand Door Signal BoxI have meant to do this since the previous post about the Gilmore signal box.<br />
<br />
I have just uploaded to my Signals Branch Shapeways shop the various parts for a right hand door 15 inch panel PC signal box examples of which were at Bogan Gate, Bombala, Coolamon and Weethalle. I am sure they would have been found at other locations but these above are all I found photos of.<br />
<br />
The Gilmore 15 inch panel PC signal box is a left hand door version and I haven't found any other photos of left hand door 15 inch panel PC signal boxes.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1wvRfvtlrNs/XSP0mK5aeMI/AAAAAAAACz4/97qpL3o-12kcu_v5zBeGILA40AW79vJPwCLcBGAs/s1600/RH%2BDoor%2B15%2Binch%2BPanel%2BPC%2BSignal%2BBox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="932" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1wvRfvtlrNs/XSP0mK5aeMI/AAAAAAAACz4/97qpL3o-12kcu_v5zBeGILA40AW79vJPwCLcBGAs/s400/RH%2BDoor%2B15%2Binch%2BPanel%2BPC%2BSignal%2BBox.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Similarly to the Gilmore left hand door version the signal box is available either complete (needs a concrete water tank) or as separate walls, roof and detail parts.<br />
<br />
The detail parts sprue for the right hand door 15 inch panel PC signal box version has two downpipes as different signal boxes had the downpipes and water tanks at different ends. See photos below.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T9Uzsn3D7Vo/XSQAYWgJj3I/AAAAAAAAC0E/ozliJMaAnL4zXZqB-AMKAGGuOdijW7z5gCLcBGAs/s1600/RHD%2BSignal%2BBox%2BDetails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="866" height="286" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T9Uzsn3D7Vo/XSQAYWgJj3I/AAAAAAAAC0E/ozliJMaAnL4zXZqB-AMKAGGuOdijW7z5gCLcBGAs/s400/RHD%2BSignal%2BBox%2BDetails.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right Hand Door 15 inch Panel PS Signal Box Detail Parts with two downpipes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The separate signal box components allow for easier painting and the walls and roof are in different materials for the level of finish required.<br />
<br />
The roof for the right hand door (RHD) 15 inch panel signal box is the same roof as for the Gilmore signal box.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d11BoABzn3Y/XSQA68FxzPI/AAAAAAAAC0M/VBPkle9eUGEd71_D5p_PuJZ-qSeeBZHpACLcBGAs/s1600/Bogan%2BGate%2BSignal%2BBox%2B2%2B-%2BHeritage%2Bfor%2BNSW%2BFB%2BGroup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d11BoABzn3Y/XSQA68FxzPI/AAAAAAAAC0M/VBPkle9eUGEd71_D5p_PuJZ-qSeeBZHpACLcBGAs/s400/Bogan%2BGate%2BSignal%2BBox%2B2%2B-%2BHeritage%2Bfor%2BNSW%2BFB%2BGroup.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bogan Gate - Photo from Heritage for NSW Facebook Group</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGwVyb6oCkU/XSQA_EF-kiI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/Ek72HlQavyk_kEJ66jn5HX1_kPBHiiYuQCLcBGAs/s1600/Coolamon%2BSignal%2BBox%2B-%2BBranchline%2BModeller%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="1166" height="235" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGwVyb6oCkU/XSQA_EF-kiI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/Ek72HlQavyk_kEJ66jn5HX1_kPBHiiYuQCLcBGAs/s400/Coolamon%2BSignal%2BBox%2B-%2BBranchline%2BModeller%2B3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coolamon Signal Box - Branchline Modeller 3</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdulIZ_rrpY/XSQBN7bSZCI/AAAAAAAAC0Y/MhowJpInGyg32xCtmnqljJho_8-pqOlFgCLcBGAs/s1600/Weethalle%2BSignal%2BBox%2B-%2BKim%2B-%2BCamden%2BBlog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="1181" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdulIZ_rrpY/XSQBN7bSZCI/AAAAAAAAC0Y/MhowJpInGyg32xCtmnqljJho_8-pqOlFgCLcBGAs/s400/Weethalle%2BSignal%2BBox%2B-%2BKim%2B-%2BCamden%2BBlog.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weethalle Signal Box - <a href="http://camdentramway.blogspot.com/2019/06/" target="_blank">Kim - Camden Tramway Blog</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When I get some time I will do the standard 10 inch panel PC signal box.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Post Script</b><br />
The initial blog post of the Gilmore signal box had 3D render images with 6 pane windows but these were changed quickly to the correct 9 pane version when it was pointed out by Rob Nesbitt (see comments of the Gilmore post). It was as plain as day in the photos so I don't know how I managed to get it wrong initially.<br />
<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-43176592206660053782019-06-06T19:43:00.000+10:002019-07-09T11:01:07.285+10:00Gilmore Signal Box - 3D Print<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have had a request to do the signal box at the Gilmore Station on the Tumut line. I decided to draw it up even though the chances of covering my time would be very slight but I like a challenge occasionally. No I can't do every thing that someone thinks up!</div>
<br />
I found that there were very few photos around but I did find two in the Train Hobby NSWR Station series of books. One photo was a view of the end of the signal box from a distance and it appeared that the box was built of 10 inch PC panels so I proceeded to draw it based on that.<br />
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Well, just before the latest AMRM magazine was released I discovered another few photos on <a href="https://www.nswrail.net/locations/show.php?name=NSW:Gilmore&line=NSW:tumut:0" target="_blank">Rolfe Bozier's web site</a> that showed that it was actually built of 15 inch panels, bummer!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a3gncVxsG44/XPjYoljehzI/AAAAAAAACyE/qHZuVigTtzgnrH36biy2OJKH1HlY46NJACLcBGAs/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B02%2B-2002-02-08%2B-%2BRolfe%2BBozier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="652" height="261" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a3gncVxsG44/XPjYoljehzI/AAAAAAAACyE/qHZuVigTtzgnrH36biy2OJKH1HlY46NJACLcBGAs/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B02%2B-2002-02-08%2B-%2BRolfe%2BBozier.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Signal Box in 2002 - Rolfe Bozier web site</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PP_YQixDRBU/XPjYozMJx2I/AAAAAAAACyM/oZuxI7uqCvIZ5UQl5d0-ikkRI7fjrCSqACLcBGAs/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B03%2B-2002-02-08%2B-%2BRolfe%2BBozier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="653" height="261" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PP_YQixDRBU/XPjYozMJx2I/AAAAAAAACyM/oZuxI7uqCvIZ5UQl5d0-ikkRI7fjrCSqACLcBGAs/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B03%2B-2002-02-08%2B-%2BRolfe%2BBozier.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Signal Box in 2002 - Rolfe Bozier web site</td></tr>
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So, in the AMRM News section there was a photo of a computer render I had supplied of the model signal box with the incorrect panels. Back to the computer then and two days later all was done.<br />
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Here are a couple of renders of the final signal box.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Im9XBCo8Ok/XSPlfRMQLVI/AAAAAAAACzk/y8gSenpnVHESzW16Yl-gYH48v3tyBLh1ACLcBGAs/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B15%2Binch%2Bpanels%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="939" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Im9XBCo8Ok/XSPlfRMQLVI/AAAAAAAACzk/y8gSenpnVHESzW16Yl-gYH48v3tyBLh1ACLcBGAs/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B15%2Binch%2Bpanels%2B1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MUKZMlyxUMI/XPjXVJGAQuI/AAAAAAAACx0/PvQkzc9CcHI1z_r3TTYBFDGheG0sqZvDACLcBGAs/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B15%2Binch%2Bpanels%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="678" height="321" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MUKZMlyxUMI/XPjXVJGAQuI/AAAAAAAACx0/PvQkzc9CcHI1z_r3TTYBFDGheG0sqZvDACLcBGAs/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B15%2Binch%2Bpanels%2B2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Tom Pall sent me a photo of the Gilmore Signal Box after he saw the render in AMRM and while it shows the 15 inch panels they also look like they have lines at the middle which would be why my distant view made me think it had 10 inch panels. Tom was relieved when I told him I had already discovered and corrected the issue.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_5l59Zoisk/XPjYtWg84GI/AAAAAAAACyg/1tG1hRUYT5cooNgjPWIxUmLfb1j-gtSMACEwYBhgL/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B04%2B-%2BTom%2BPall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="429" data-original-width="552" height="310" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_5l59Zoisk/XPjYtWg84GI/AAAAAAAACyg/1tG1hRUYT5cooNgjPWIxUmLfb1j-gtSMACEwYBhgL/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2B04%2B-%2BTom%2BPall.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Signal Box - Tom Pall</td></tr>
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The AMRM stated that the HO Gilmore Signal Box was for sale however I haven't made it available as yet as I have been trying to optimise the cost due to the recent increase from Shapeways for the Fine Detail Plastic material. It should be available shortly with several options of materials so that the cost can be worked out to suit (see renders below).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z08TfuhEluw/XPjeGwYs0UI/AAAAAAAACys/qT-PF-VW8Zc5Xnv-E4ydZsIXCrIKGWBdwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2BWalls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="805" height="292" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z08TfuhEluw/XPjeGwYs0UI/AAAAAAAACys/qT-PF-VW8Zc5Xnv-E4ydZsIXCrIKGWBdwCEwYBhgL/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2BWalls.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Signal Box Walls - Available in White Versatile Plastic or Fine Detail Plastic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LpBw_rSJtB8/XPjeGwlhzxI/AAAAAAAACyo/hQM9LmFvujIl3Ud1sR8ItaHdGUhJmo1JwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2BRoof.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="977" height="222" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LpBw_rSJtB8/XPjeGwlhzxI/AAAAAAAACyo/hQM9LmFvujIl3Ud1sR8ItaHdGUhJmo1JwCEwYBhgL/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2BRoof.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Signal Box Roof - Available in White Versatile Plastic or Fine Detail Plastic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3VMyjRrut2I/XSPl9H9SaVI/AAAAAAAACzw/oUq4tTfQN4QeOWd6Q0XrfA7b7x7VPIY7gCEwYBhgL/s1600/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2BDetails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="635" data-original-width="891" height="285" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3VMyjRrut2I/XSPl9H9SaVI/AAAAAAAACzw/oUq4tTfQN4QeOWd6Q0XrfA7b7x7VPIY7gCEwYBhgL/s400/Gilmore%2BSignal%2BBox%2BDetails.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Detail Parts in Fine Detail Plastic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cIkeKLi6NXg/XPjeHjEU4GI/AAAAAAAACy0/gyrOC5R4XMgsGtk3gVOjjiL5Xonq2UHiQCEwYBhgL/s1600/PC%2BWater%2BTank%2Bfor%2BGilmore%2BSignal%2BBox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="725" height="333" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cIkeKLi6NXg/XPjeHjEU4GI/AAAAAAAACy0/gyrOC5R4XMgsGtk3gVOjjiL5Xonq2UHiQCEwYBhgL/s400/PC%2BWater%2BTank%2Bfor%2BGilmore%2BSignal%2BBox.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gilmore Signal Box PC Water Tank - Available in White Versatile Plastic or Fine Detail Plastic</td></tr>
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It will also be available complete in Fine Detail Plastic with all details printed in place except for the water tank. The issue here will be with painting the doors, windows etc. in place on the model as against separately on a sprue.<br />
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OK, here is the sales pitch! With Casula Hobbies bringing out the HO RTR Z19 Class steam locomotive with the early Baldwin bogie tender then there is no reason not to model the Tumut branch so you will definitely need the Gilmore Signal Box.<br />
<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-20837577893756965132019-03-16T11:54:00.002+11:002019-03-16T11:54:41.947+11:00Staffs and Staff Boxes - A Model InterpretationIt has been a while since the last post and I did say I was working on something for another post so here it is.<br />
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This took a lot longer to do than I anticipated.<br />
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I have drawn up and printed some small staff boxes for use on my Bylong layout. These staff boxes had to fit on the layout edge which is made from nominal 2 inch X 1 inch pine framing with 1/2 inch (12/13 mm) chipboard on top. The boxes were designed to fit the nominal 2 inch edge. Nominal means that the pine frame isn't really 2 inches X 1 inch and in fact measures 42 mm X 20 mm.<br />
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The idea was to use the <a href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch?section=Other+Items&s=0" target="_blank">small 3D printed staffs</a> available from my <a href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/signalsbranch?s=0" target="_blank">Signals Branch shop</a> although I did have to print two more on my FDM (filament) printer which I will come to later in this post.<br />
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So the idea was to use the small tabs on the staffs to trigger two micro switches to turn the box into a switch. Now each staff has two tabs in different places just like the prototype does. On the prototype the staff is inserted into a key way in the side of the box and this enables the box lid to be opened so that a book of tickets can be removed and used to allow a train to proceed into the next staff section without the staff. Once the train or trains have left the staff section the following train can proceed with the staff to the next staff section signal box. Of course no train movements can come in the other direction until the staff has arrived at the next section signal box to allow the process to repeat for the other direction. The other aspect of this is that the staff will only open the staff box it is for.<br />
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The staff boxes are painted in red, white, blue and green and have a circle, triangle, square and heart respectively.<br />
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The name plates on the above staff boxes appear to be a later addition. On the model boxes I chose to used raised lettering to make it easier to paint the signal box/station names.<br />
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Here is a photo of the parts I designed and printed on my FDM printer:<br />
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Of course, the staff box is too small to contain tickets so the idea is to use the micro switches and the matching staff to say change the opposing Home signal to stop. The switches could be used with a solenoid or servo to unlock another box containing tickets as well. I will be using the staffs and staff boxes to trigger programming in NCE Mini Panels. I set up a Mini Panel with some programming but found that the normal lever (switch) that operates the Home signal would change the signal to clear even if the staff box had put it at stop. So the thought is to use the staff box to disconnect the wiring of the signal lever that goes to the Mini Panel such that the signal can't go to clear while the staff is in the staff box. The staff box would also trigger the Mini Panel to put the Home signal at stop.<br />
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A note here about NCE Mini Panel triggering. The Mini Panel uses a wire from the Mini Panel ground to a switch then back to an input on the Mini Panel. The Mini Panel programming reacts to a change of state such as a switch closure but not about the switch already being closed hence the problem above with the Home signal. Also to throw a point or signal the other way it needs a separate input so keep this in mind if using a Mini Panel. The Mini Panel has 5 volts available on the circuit board which could be used with a 5 volt relay or a flip flop transistor circuit if required to feed from a NCE BD20 track detector to the Mini Panel. The Mini Panel will react to the BD20 turning on but does not react to a BD20 or switch turning off so the relay or transistor circuit can be used here to produce the turn off input to the Mini Panel. <br />
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Anyway, that is where I have got to after several weeks of design, printing and painting the staff boxes. Oh yes, I had to make two more staffs with different tabs and matching staff boxes for two extra sections. I painted the circle and heart on the two repeating staff boxes brass along with the area around the circle and heart cutouts on the staffs to indicate that they are different.<br />
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While I am sure staff sections on the real railway have a number of stations within them I chose to have staff sections that ran from station to station in model form.<br />
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Here is the full set in order including the one already mounted at Bylong. In the way of these things I managed to put the triangle on my white model boxes upside down so It looks like some more printing and painting coming up.<br />
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Now I have to get back to finishing and installing the rest of my signals on Bylong, it never ends does it, just as well that it is fun.<br />
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<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-75002498102276881322019-02-02T19:03:00.001+11:002019-02-03T17:17:47.960+11:00Werris Creek Station and a Couple of Signal BoxesSorry for the lack of posts over the holiday period, we haven't been away just other things intruding at times.<br />
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I have been doing a couple of things though.<br />
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In early December I installed the Werris Creek station building and platform on Ron Cunningham's Werris Creek layout. It didn't go quite as planned even though I had made a template of the space and worked out where the platform and building would go. Unfortunately, I didn't allow enough platform space for the awnings on both sides of the building which meant that the platform and building had to move further away from the apex of the North and North Western lines. The result was that the straight end of the platform on the North line had to be trimmed to meet the curve of the track as it wrapped around the room corner. Luckily the curved part of the platform is not really that visible and will be hidden once the Refreshment Room/Hotel building is in place (whenever that might be).<br />
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I decided that it was time for it to go to Ron's even though there are still a few bits to be done. The main things are the platform edging which I am hoping will be laser etched and cut so that it can be laminated onto the timber platform face. The second missing item was the small concrete paneled signal box on the apex of the platform.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p36WssO8F3E/XFVMbNIESiI/AAAAAAAACuM/qGT3jElLracuYu2kjBYk9OfpWwozZ5nJACLcBGAs/s1600/20181211_200753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p36WssO8F3E/XFVMbNIESiI/AAAAAAAACuM/qGT3jElLracuYu2kjBYk9OfpWwozZ5nJACLcBGAs/s400/20181211_200753.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L7Qe4tKGEF4/XFVMbMqfHRI/AAAAAAAACuQ/RVe43-cFRgUVT5dLq4Qf1PpHqgMzkgheQCLcBGAs/s1600/20181211_200823.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L7Qe4tKGEF4/XFVMbMqfHRI/AAAAAAAACuQ/RVe43-cFRgUVT5dLq4Qf1PpHqgMzkgheQCLcBGAs/s400/20181211_200823.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Station just prior to the move with a rough first print' of the platform signal box</td></tr>
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So, as the platform edging was out of my hands I had decided to work on the small signal box. On our way last November to the Convention at Armidale we dropped into Werris Creek and I measured the signal box and took some photos, these were now referred t as I drew up a 3D version for printing. I printed the walls and roof on my Cocoon Create Touch FDM printer (filament) and the doors and windows and gable barge boards were printed on my new Phrozen Shuffle XL DLP printer (resin). While the walls and roof are not as good a finish as would be achieved with the DLP printer they are adequate and straight/rectangular models are difficult to keep straight with DLP printers as the resin is prone to warping caused by about a 0.5% shrinkage when curing. Some warping is evident in the doors of the South Box model, these were straight when printed and warped later.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Auats-e-fZY/XFVILVBp3dI/AAAAAAAACto/rHjwFPFhao8Skcl4d7IIgGlWupm5NSNVgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Unknown%2B53cl%2Bshunting%2BWerris%2BCreek%2B1971.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="1002" height="278" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Auats-e-fZY/XFVILVBp3dI/AAAAAAAACto/rHjwFPFhao8Skcl4d7IIgGlWupm5NSNVgCEwYBhgL/s400/Unknown%2B53cl%2Bshunting%2BWerris%2BCreek%2B1971.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only photo I have found of the signal box in 1971 - Photographer unknown</td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OnRVsFD0JfI/XFVFzc9F_SI/AAAAAAAACsw/fm-bLZlO-hwv8STgSwDo3_t4tpk4DyQ5ACEwYBhgL/s1600/20181116_111937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OnRVsFD0JfI/XFVFzc9F_SI/AAAAAAAACsw/fm-bLZlO-hwv8STgSwDo3_t4tpk4DyQ5ACEwYBhgL/s400/20181116_111937.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DldqwE5VbN4/XFVFzsl3ERI/AAAAAAAACs0/ObAN7CG0ahAi1Og_RcZ9rCfk0KnJH1a_gCEwYBhgL/s1600/20181116_112023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DldqwE5VbN4/XFVFzsl3ERI/AAAAAAAACs0/ObAN7CG0ahAi1Og_RcZ9rCfk0KnJH1a_gCEwYBhgL/s400/20181116_112023.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In 'Heritage' colours - November 2018</td></tr>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S0TwZ6U4Trg/XFVG6OD31lI/AAAAAAAACtU/gCAF5u1jXtAK2GlJb0UI_KAWScS3Z_xjQCEwYBhgL/s1600/20190111_191258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S0TwZ6U4Trg/XFVG6OD31lI/AAAAAAAACtU/gCAF5u1jXtAK2GlJb0UI_KAWScS3Z_xjQCEwYBhgL/s400/20190111_191258.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qQdWaN8I6yQ/XFVG57bHwYI/AAAAAAAACtU/92H8QNbUBOw-HjWVny1weGwFSIMr6SMdgCEwYBhgL/s1600/20190111_191307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qQdWaN8I6yQ/XFVG57bHwYI/AAAAAAAACtU/92H8QNbUBOw-HjWVny1weGwFSIMr6SMdgCEwYBhgL/s400/20190111_191307.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The model sitting in the grass on my Cassilis yard on BYLONG</td></tr>
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Please note that the current signal box is lowered slightly into the platform surface due to the platform having been raised. The model is correct for the period.<br />
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With the small signal box out of the way I decided that the next job was to do the same for the Werris Creek South Box which has long been demolished. I had two photos of is and a couple of sketches by an unknown person. This sketch was useful as it gave me an indication of what was on the rear wall of the South Box. The extra details around the signal box will be added once the South Box is in place permanently.<br />
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The prototype photos and the final result are shown here below less the deck at the front which will be built once the small scenery bank that it sits on is in place on the layout.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WM-Fv7J8DzU/XFVLdsOeEoI/AAAAAAAACuA/9eiPnfEOtMIQzKwd7rgC0ZNYpyD1EKKlACLcBGAs/s1600/WCK%2BSouth%2BBox%2B1%2B-%2BDate%2Bunknown%2B-%2BPhotographer%2Bunknown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1127" data-original-width="1600" height="281" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WM-Fv7J8DzU/XFVLdsOeEoI/AAAAAAAACuA/9eiPnfEOtMIQzKwd7rgC0ZNYpyD1EKKlACLcBGAs/s400/WCK%2BSouth%2BBox%2B1%2B-%2BDate%2Bunknown%2B-%2BPhotographer%2Bunknown.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown photographer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QhOc1wf9Hws/XFVIfGlBxKI/AAAAAAAACt4/AAsMIrlgg-oL2Juf3aIieZS32VCN8MzmwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCN2196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QhOc1wf9Hws/XFVIfGlBxKI/AAAAAAAACt4/AAsMIrlgg-oL2Juf3aIieZS32VCN8MzmwCEwYBhgL/s400/DSCN2196.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown photographer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fbaR2moPvTw/XFVONS0ONiI/AAAAAAAACuc/jAuMC7mKYOkknn-zJz4GbBgZYXsqqgYRgCLcBGAs/s1600/Werris%2BCreek%2BSouth%2BBox%2BSketch%2B-%2BUnknown%2BArtist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1305" data-original-width="1063" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fbaR2moPvTw/XFVONS0ONiI/AAAAAAAACuc/jAuMC7mKYOkknn-zJz4GbBgZYXsqqgYRgCLcBGAs/s400/Werris%2BCreek%2BSouth%2BBox%2BSketch%2B-%2BUnknown%2BArtist.jpg" width="325" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sketches - Unknown Artist</td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jKKVmnhnEUY/XFVG6FqzNpI/AAAAAAAACtM/uL4l42Hxk_gV3cYkilujdFxztCzVBf9CACEwYBhgL/s1600/20190111_191405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jKKVmnhnEUY/XFVG6FqzNpI/AAAAAAAACtM/uL4l42Hxk_gV3cYkilujdFxztCzVBf9CACEwYBhgL/s400/20190111_191405.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zU-Rr0be3xw/XFVG7-Ca1zI/AAAAAAAACtQ/M05VPBFGWNMRL5oXuK7wOcal7z1FfReTQCEwYBhgL/s1600/20190111_191420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zU-Rr0be3xw/XFVG7-Ca1zI/AAAAAAAACtQ/M05VPBFGWNMRL5oXuK7wOcal7z1FfReTQCEwYBhgL/s400/20190111_191420.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The model sitting in the grass on my Cassilis yard on BYLONG</td></tr>
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I have been up to some other modelling recently but that will be a subject for the next post.<br />
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<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9074654920193695267.post-4894238626751513922018-12-24T14:30:00.000+11:002018-12-24T14:30:21.975+11:00Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New YearWell another year has gone by and this now makes the tenth year of the blog, quite amazing!<br />
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I don't know what I expected when I started the blog in 2008 but I have had fun although the posts have got a bit further apart of late. I will try to do more posts about the layout and little projects this coming year although there will be the odd 3D printing post as I find it a fascinating way to model although not suitable for everything.<br />
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I have always liked to push the boundaries and try new techniques and as such BYLONG has really been a test bed down the years since it first started in 1978. Parts of the existing layout are still in evidence from the first exhibited 1979 version and it takes me back to an earlier time when I look at this years Christmas card as the hill behind the town with the rusty corrugated iron shed above the street is from the original layout.<br />
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Talking of projects I really must finish the pub on the corner of the main street, slack! Unfortunately this is a side effect of having ideas and wanting to try new things.<br />
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It doesn't look like the lack of a two story verandah and awning has caused the locals to stay away on this Christmas Eve afternoon.<br />
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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!<br />
<br />Ray Phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16624865987062727847noreply@blogger.com1