Testing the running qualities of the Eureka HUB set

I just got my 5 car Eureka HUB set and as they roll extremely well I decided to give them a running trial behind several steam locomotive models.

I tested the following:

Eureka C38
Austrains C36
Austrains C35
and Trainorama C32.

I ran the HUB set with each locomotive from my lower staging yard across the full main line to my upper staging yard.

All locomotives hauled the HUB set with ease up my 1 in 40 grades some of which are on 30" (760mm) curves.

I took a video of each climb up the last long 1 in 40 bank which has a curve right at the top end which can usually bring a locomotive to it's knees if it is overloaded.

The trains were run on DCC at speed steps ranging in the 40 - 50s of 128 possible steps so perhaps at around half power equivalent for DC (if you can really say that with DCC). Basically they were ran at a slow to medium speed to ensure that they weren't using momentum gained on the flat sections of the layout to coast up the grades.

Here is the video, you can see that each locomotive is not having any problems with hauling the HUB set. I believe that each locomotive would have handled the 7 car HUB set as well.

Weathering Timber with Pastels

Some time ago I did a post about my installation of a Laser Rail Bits level crossing timber kit and I mentioned that I had used pastels to weather the timbers. At the time I had a request from Rod Kelly of Laser Rail Bits asking if I could do a post on my weathering method.

Although late here is how I use the pastels.

The pastels can be found in a craft or art store and may be bought as individual colours or in a set. I have one set with a range of colours in mostly earth tones and another which ranges from black through greys to white.

I chose this time to weather and build an ash filled buffer stop from the Laser Rail Bits range (recycled sleeper version).

In this first photo the black/grey/white pastels can be seen along with the brush, tweezers and the laser cut and 'etched' buffer stop parts. I used the two dark greys third and fourth from the left and the lighter grey which is fifth from the left.

I find that using the pastels and the small cut off brush allows me to colour individual sleepers differently as they would be and I can also add rust stains using a red/brown pastel (lower left) to the areas where the rail sole plates were (as 'etched' onto the timbers in the kit). If a pastel is sharpened to a point or wedge shape it can also be applied directly to the individual timbers.

The sides of each piece of the timber has been burnt by the laser while cutting and doesn't take the pastel too well but is a dark colour. I use the tweezers to hold the individual pieces of timber and I rub each timber side on the pastel in a cross the grain motion which helps imbed the pastel. If the brush is used along the grain it sometines doesn't impart enough colour.

Here is the finished kit and the different sleeper colour and the faded rusty marks of the rail sole plates can be seen. The balsa base and internal 'ash' shape are not included in the kit.

And here is the ash filled buffer stop in place on the layout.

Give it a go, it's easy.

Happy New Year and a non-Bylong post

I recently came across an old VHS tape I had made of the Beyond Buliac layout which was shown at a Modelling the Railways of NSW convention in 1994.

The original was taken on a Sony Video 8 Handicam so the resolution isn't great and since I have a bit of conversion hardware I thought that those who didn't get to see it might enjoy my little video.

I had only just got the Handycam so I have to apologise for not turning the date off. Interestingly it does disappear during the video but then comes back again, more proof that I didn't know what I was doing.

Anyway, enjoy.

Happy New Year....

Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Chris and I would like to wish everyone a merry Christmas and a happy and safe New Year.

And for a bit of fun, here are a few Christmas 'presents'.

I must apologise for the poor focus on the train, I just got carried away with the particle effects in the CyberLink PowerDirector 11 Ultra program I just purchased. I will have to set up a suitable shot and try again.

I really must dirty the CPH like these following wagons (some still have a bit of work to finish).

Austrains CW  

Austrains GSV

 Austrains ICV

Eureka Models BSV 

On Track Models HLV 



On Track Models LLV

And lastly, a stock train in the loop at Bylong.

Ampol Tanker No.3 - Weathered

I recently found a photo of the Ampol No.3 tanker on 24 April 1965 (right in my era) in the Train Hobby Blayney/Cowra Branchline book (page 21) and noted that it had a petrol spill from one dome. Here is an extract from the photo showing the spill. There is also another photo of the same train earlier in the book.

I decided that I would attempt to replicate this and here is the result.

I first gave it a dusting of a pale yellowish brown and then airbrushed some clear gloss in the appropriate area. I didn't use a brush as I felt that it would give too sharp an edge.
Unfortunately my air brush decided to spit and I ended with a couple of tinydrops when doing the dusting, oh well it still looks good.

But it could do with a bit more clear as this closer shot shows.

POST EDIT:

Here it is with some more petrol stain (clear), the spatter can be seen under the walk way below the first dome.

Post No. 100 - Back on line - 1960s Oil Tankers

Post number 100 and about 73,500 page views since my first post in late 2008, how time flies, but not the last couple of weeks.

Having survived the prostate removal operation, 4 days in hospital and another 7 days with a catheter attached I am now in the last stage, trying to get my bladder control back. Enough said about that though.

I managed to do my first bit of modelling yesterday based around several SDS Models Oil Tankers.

SDS released some of their tankers as single cars and as I have been running timetable operation with my existing kit bashed tank cars I decided that I would try to replace them one for one, brand for brand. The problem was though that SDS have not released much for the 1960's.

I decided to back date several of the 1970's versions.

I understand that there may be some errors in my approach (bogies possibly) but decided that I could live with that.

I bought an Ampol tanker with the small lettering, a BP, a silver Golden Fleece (1960 version already) and 2 Esso tankers.

I took a sharp hobby knife and carefully scraped off the yellow 80 kph hexagon signs and with a bit of careful air brushing I painted the grey anti-slip areas around and on the domes with black. I used a piece of card and held it in front of the dome side numbering which allowed a little overspray on the lettering (proper masking would have left a clear demarcation line to be dealt with).

The silver Golden Fleece tanker was heavily air brushed with a grey/black until the lettering was just visible as per the photo of a real silver tanker below. I have also added a photo of the actual type of Golden Fleece tanker which from the test date appears to be from 1984. Note that although it is cleaner than the earlier late 1960s - early 1970s photo it has possibly been cleaned recently.

Here are the models:

And finally the Ampol tanker done before my operation.

I will add some more weathering with pastels as time (and other issues) permit.

Anyway, I am happy to back.

S08 Silo for Wollar

When Auscision announced that the silos had arrived and there were only 12 S08s left I had a quick look at the layout to see where I could place one. Now I didn't have a lot of hope but since it was such a nice model I gave it a go. Often when we are really pushed something changes in our thinking and I immediately found a location at Wollar.
Wollar has two goods storage sidings primarily for the Cassilis Branch but they are placed behind the loco depot and can be difficult to get to. The inner or front siding is not too bad but the rear siding having other wagons in front of it is problematical. Also the rear siding is longer than the front and wraps around the curved main line and then straightens up for a short distance, just long enough for the S08. The siding will need extending around the curve to the level crossing so that the empties can be pushed past the silo then 'gravitated' into loading position. I say gravitated as in real life the siding was usually sloped to allow the use of handbrakes to move the wagons into loading position and then away again, however the model siding won't be sloped.
Here is an overview of the area, the photo is not up to my usual standard but you can get the idea. The siding will be extended to the left, the level crossing being just out of the shot (see road).

I immediately ordered a silo and it arrived about 4 days later.
The model comes with a very thick base which includes a section for the track which is 12mm thick, unfortunately it seems to have been designed for those who use use open frame and not full baseboards. For those with full baseboards (at least at stations which is I suspect more the norm) it means that you will have to cut into the baseboard to mount the silo and as the silo is  reasonably heavy being cast resin extra framing would be required. Now this isn't meant to be a criticism just a comment.
Luckily the siding I wanted to use was on a couple of thicknesses of cork and was sufficiently high to be OK if the cast track base area was cut from the silo.
Now, how to cut it off?
After much deliberation I decided that I would use a table saw which would cut from underneath the silo base, there being no room above due to the unloading pipe suspended above the track area. Maybe it could be done with a sharp handsaw but too much potential for damage.
The only problem was that I didn't own a table saw but I had been thinking about getting one anyway, so off to Bunnings and $112 later (plus a 40 tooth saw blade) and after assembly of the saw with the fine toothed blade I was ready.
I need to point out that what I had to do to cut the base can be dangerous as I had to remove the safety guard on the top of the table so that it wouldn't break the unloading pipe. I also had to check that the vertical guide behind the saw wouldn't hit the pipe, luckily it would miss by about 3mm.
I set the guide fence to what I needed to remove, placed the silo on the saw table and I stood to the side of the table out of the way of the saw blade and turned the saw on.
The resin cut well but I did take it slowly, it did make a mess though so I was glad I did it on a decking. I would appreciate it if no one mentioned this to my wife ;-)
If you attempt this then it is at you're own peril.
I have so far cut out the existing scenery and placed the silo on the layout.
Here it is in place in the scenery.

 

And a different view.

And finally without the bricks.

I still have to extend the siding but that will have to wait as I go into Hospital on Monday for my prostate removal and won't be able to do anything on the layout for about six weeks. I have got some building kits to make so I won't go stir crazy watching TV.